A Dog’s Life in Porto, Portugal—and Why I Love It

A Dog’s Life in Portugal—and Why I Love It
A typical day in Porto—sidewalk chats and tail wags.|©iStock/travelview

I moved to Porto, Portugal, in 2022 with my sixteen-year-old rescue dog, Jake. He was having health issues, and I needed to quickly learn the ins and outs of dog life in a new country. That meant finding a vet, navigating pet shops, learning the rules about where dogs are allowed, and eventually investing in a local dog stroller and backpack.

A year after Jake passed, I adopted a rescue dog here in Portugal. I named her Estrela (which means "star" in Portuguese), and I’ll share more about her shortly.

I was used to the pet culture of the U.S., but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by how dog-friendly Portugal is. The Portuguese are just as devoted to their pets as Americans, which was both refreshing and reassuring.

In this article, I’ll share what I’ve learned about having a dog in Portugal: where dogs are welcome, how locals respond, how to find daycare, adoption, and volunteer options, vet care, and the realities of everyday life with a pup—from joyful moments to the occasional mess on the sidewalk.

Daily Life With a Dog in Portugal

Many patios welcome dogs, and some vegan spots allow them inside—just look for the paw print signs.
Many patios welcome dogs, and some vegan spots allow them inside—just look for the paw print signs.|©iStock/InnaFelker
Where Are Dogs Allowed?

Dogs aren’t allowed inside most restaurants in Portugal, but they are welcome on patios where food is served. That makes summer the best time to explore the city with your beloved pooch. Still, for much of the year, you can usually find a café or restaurant with a covered patio.

If you’re a dog owner and vegan, here’s a pleasant surprise: almost every vegan restaurant I’ve visited—in both Porto and Lisbon—has welcomed dogs indoors. A few non-vegan spots do too. Try searching “dog-friendly restaurants near me” on Google Maps for a long (though not always complete) list. You can also look up individual restaurants and expand the “dine-in, takeaway, delivery” section under the About tab. If dogs are allowed inside, it usually appears at the bottom of that list.

That said, dog-friendliness indoors largely ends there. Most stores don’t allow dogs; they’re absolutely not permitted in markets, and only a few malls allow them inside.

Look for a decal on the window or door indicating whether dogs are allowed. Some markets even have “dog parking” stations outside where you can safely tie up Fido.

Life’s better with a dog: Kimberly Anne and Estrela in Porto.
Life’s better with a dog: Kimberly Anne and Estrela in Porto.
Walking Your Dog

I love walking my dog in Porto. There are loads of pedestrian-only streets, even right near my apartment. When I walk her through the city, most people greet us warmly. They say things like, “What a beautiful dog,” or “Oh, how cute.” They smile, strike up conversations, or bend down to give her a pet.

This is my favorite thing about walking Estrela—the wonderful people we meet along the way. Since I walk the pedestrian street near my home several times a day, I’ve met many fellow dog owners in the neighborhood.

But even the sunniest day in Porto can suddenly turn stormy, unleashing an unexpected downpour. And then there’s the off-leash dilemma. Many people here walk their dogs without a leash. Is it legal? Nope. Do they get in trouble for it? Not really. Since there are rarely consequences, many simply don’t care. Most of the time, it’s not a problem, but it can be challenging when untrained dogs approach too quickly.

Another thing to be aware of is that not everyone picks up after their dogs. I was surprised at first, but I’ve adjusted. There are signs and posted fines, though they’re not always enforced. A Portuguese friend of mine, mindful of both cost and waste, saves her produce bags and reuses them for walks.

It’s helped me to accept some of these differences and adapt rather than stress. And on the bright side, the frequent rain in Porto has a silver lining—it helps keep the sidewalks clean.

Dog Parks

There aren’t as many dog parks here as in the U.S., but I’m lucky to have one close to my apartment. It’s a great space overall, though it doesn’t have any grass. Since the ground is all dirt, visits after rain can get messy. The soil sticks to paws, coats clothing, and settles deep into a dog’s fur. It works in a pinch, but it’s not ideal.

Nearby, on the pedestrian-only walking street, there’s a large grassy area where locals often gather and let their dogs run off-leash. It’s a beautiful spot, though not fenced—so if your dog doesn’t reliably respond to recall, it can be tricky.

Living in an apartment without a yard, I haven’t been able to train my pup to come back consistently. If she’s startled by a noise or distracted by a bird or cat, she’ll take off. That limits my ability to let her “run it out,” which is tough—she’s full of energy and really needs the exercise.

Enter: Daycare
Estrela living her best life at her Portuguese daycare.
Estrela living her best life at her Portuguese daycare.

When I first adopted Estrela, she was basically feral. Found living in a forest near Braga, she had never been inside a house. I brought her home and confined her to the front room, where she promptly ate four of my walls.

Friends suggested I give her up and take her to a shelter, but I couldn’t do that. I knew what she really needed was some TLC—and a lot of training. Crate training came first, followed by potty training. It took love, positive reinforcement, and a good deal of patience, but now, eighteen months later, she’s nearly perfect.

When I told my landlady about the walls, she suggested daycare. “I can’t afford that,” I scoffed. And I had no idea where to even start looking. But instead of dismissing the idea entirely, I began asking other dog owners during our daily walks.

One place came up repeatedly, so I took Estrela there for a meet-and-greet. It was a match made in heaven. The daycare is incredibly affordable, just minutes from my home, and the dogs all play together in a huge, fenced-in field. Honestly, I couldn’t ask for more. The team is wonderful, true dog lovers, and the owner is fantastic. I’ve even referred other dog parents, including the owner of Estrela’s best friend, Nika, who now goes too.

As for the cost: When I lived in California, I paid $65 per day for daycare for my little guy, Jake. A friend still pays that rate, and she lives in a rural area. In the San Francisco area, I’ve heard prices have risen to $125 per day. Another client of mine in Michigan pays $60 for just a half day.

Here, the pricing model is different—and much more budget-friendly. You get discounts for buying in bulk. A single day costs €16.50. A four-pack runs €60. And a twenty-pack, enough for five days a week for a month, is just €190. They even offer a pet taxi service for pickup and drop-off.

Needless to say, daycare has solved most of my “problems.” I can work during the day while Estrela plays outside with her friends.

Hiking and Beaches

Recently, I took Estrela on her first hike—and it exceeded all expectations. Dogs are allowed on most hiking trails in Portugal, which is a welcome contrast to Marin County, California, where I used to live. There, dogs are often prohibited from trails due to concerns about wildlife.

A ranger once explained it to me this way: “When a bird or other animal has a nest of babies, they often cross the trail in search of food. If a dog walks through, the wild animal may smell it and won’t cross back to care for their young.”

I don’t know all the hiking regulations in Portugal, so before heading out, I used the AllTrails app to ensure the route I chose was dog-friendly.

When it comes to beaches, most in Portugal don’t allow dogs during the summer months—but in the off-season, the rules are rarely enforced. Just last weekend, in June, we took a short trip about 40 minutes south of Porto to a little town called Ovar. The beach there, Furadouro, does allow dogs, although I didn’t know that until we arrived. Other dogs were happily roaming the shore, running in and out of the surf, barking at the waves.

Estrela had an incredible time. The day couldn’t have been more magical.

Furadouro Beach is one of the few summer spots where dogs are still allowed.
Furadouro Beach is one of the few summer spots where dogs are still allowed.|©iStock/AnaMOMarques

Helping Those Still in Need

While many people here love animals, abandonment still happens. It’s not uncommon to see public service billboards reading, “I am not trash.” Stray animals, often frightened escapees from fireworks, are sadly common. I’ve tried to help when I can, though it’s tricky with my own dog in tow. Online groups help with rescue efforts, and vets can scan for microchips. One Portuguese friend of mine even carries food and a leash to help strays—she now cares for six cats and a dog.

I already shared Estrela’s adoption story, but it’s worth talking more broadly about pet adoption in Portugal, and how it often leads to opportunities for volunteering.

One of the things I love most here is that many people choose to adopt pets from shelters. That fills my heart. While I don’t want to shame anyone for their choices, I personally have never purchased an animal from a breeder and never plan to. There are simply too many deserving strays in need of homes.

The shelters I know of in Portugal are quite good. That’s not to say all of them are perfect, but several maintain websites or Facebook groups where they list adoptable pets, complete with photos and descriptions.

Some of my Portuguese and expat friends volunteer at these shelters, and others foster animals in their homes. My friend Hilary volunteers weekly and also fosters cats—her most recent foster was a mama cat with three newborn kittens. Dog fostering is also available, though one challenge is that due to the high number of animals in need, some shelters may expect fosters to adopt. That said, if you set clear boundaries (as Hilary does), fostering can be a great experience.

Whether you’re fostering or helping out at the shelter, the need is real, and the work is incredibly rewarding.

Veterinarians

I found my vet the same way I’ve discovered many great things in Porto—by asking fellow dog owners on our daily walks. When four or five different people mentioned one particular veterinarian, I had a good feeling she’d be the right one. And she was.

As I mentioned earlier, when I first arrived, my little guy Jake was in his final years and needed a lot of care. Dr. Antonietta was a lifesaver. My dog-walking friends had warned me about some clinics that overcharge, but Dr. A was known for both her compassion and her fair pricing.

Compared to what I used to pay in the U.S., her rates are surprisingly low. Back in Marin County, California, a basic vet consultation ran about $75, and that’s before adding tests or medications. Here, I’ve had multiple consultations with Dr. A, where she didn’t charge me at all.

All the services—overnight stays, tests, medications—cost just a fraction of what I paid back home. And in my opinion, the quality of care is even better.

When it was Jake’s time, Dr. A came to my home. She stayed with me for ninety minutes, first administering a calming sedative, then the final injection. She took Jake’s body with her, arranged for cremation, and returned his ashes in a beautiful box with his photo on the lid. The total cost was under €200.

Final Thoughts

Portugal’s treatment of dogs (and animals in general) has far exceeded my expectations. I hope they’ll be permitted in more places eventually, such as shopping centers and retail stores. Dog owners can always find a cafe to sit outdoors with their pup or a vegan restaurant that will allow their best friend inside.

For the most part, people here love their pets. They rescue them from the trash, the streets, and even the forest. There are volunteer and foster opportunities to be had, if one so desires.

The best part, by far, are the amazing people you will get to meet when you’re out and about with your canine love. From people throwing compliments our way to a smile or a lengthy conversation. Having a dog in Portugal has opened up a whole new world that didn’t exist during my year of flying solo. I sincerely hope you, too, can experience these wagging tails, lolling tongues, wet noses, and unconditional love.

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