Casciana Terme, Italy: Easy to Miss, Hard to Forget

As I turned off the paved road and onto Via di Fichino, my heart started beating faster. I was about to catch the first glimpse of Le Querciole (The Oaks), the six-apartment "farmhouse" I would call home for the next 10 days.

The building was situated on a bit of a rise to take full advantage of the sweeping landscape. I pulled up, parked, and stepped out onto Tuscan soil. Despite never having been there before, I felt an immediate sense of calm… and belonging.

Nestled among the Pisan countryside, the village of Casciana Terme is all too easily passed over in favor of classic Tuscan destinations like Pisa, Florence, and Siena. But, if you’re like me, and enjoy driving on winding roads, making authentic local dishes, and having hands-on experiences in new places, Casciana Terme is for you.

I’ve been to Italy eight times since that first trip to Casciana Terme, and regardless of my itinerary, I’ve always returned to the village, specifically to the farmhouse, because of its peacefulness and timeless beauty.

Built over ancient Etruscan land, Casciana Terme is located roughly 40 miles southwest of Florence and 15 miles southeast of Pisa. Due to its central location, it is a perfect base to explore the surrounding area. Its population is roughly 2,200 people and the iconic Tuscan olive groves, wheat fields and vineyards cover much of the 31 square miles.

Here you’ll find small grocery stores, the local little wine cafe, a laundromat, the bus shelter and other shops. Leading off from the piazza to the right, look for Bar Spaghetteria Il Cipo for mouthwatering pasta dishes in a relaxed and informal atmosphere. The chef prepares everything right in front of you.

Stroll just a few hundred yards further and you’ll come to the Piazza Garibaldi. People gather there for celebrations, conversation, and to simply enjoy each other’s company. It’s home to a bank, hotel, gift and pasta shops, and the Church of (Chiesa di) Santa Maria Assunta which dates back to the 9th century!

It’s also home to Gran Caffè delle Terme. The café’s high, ornamental ceiling and small tables create an intimate space perfect for the day’s first cappuccino and pastry. Or, take a seat outside to enjoy the morning’s sights and sounds.

The local residents are friendly, talkative, and patient with novice Italian speakers (like me). I never heard native English speakers there. (But you can find Tuscan expat communities nearby in Lucca, Arezzo, Florence, Pisa, and Siena.)

A Village for Every Season

Charming Casciana Terme: A serene Tuscan village with timeless architecture.|©iStock/Fani Kurti

Fall is my favorite time of year to visit Casciana Terme. Not only is it harvest season, but the days are warm and the evenings are "sweater" cool. Spend some (delicious) time picking olives from a ladder up in the trees. The technique is pretty simple and quite meditative: you start at the top of a thin branch and work your way down it, gently removing the ripe fruit one at a time. When you’re done, your hands will feel like they’ve just had an olive oil treatment!

The olives are then gathered in netting, placed in crates, and immediately brought to the local olive mill, or Frantoio. After a 45-minute process, the cold-pressed olives produce oil which is bottled right there and then. Only this type of processing qualifies as extra virgin olive oil.

Winters in Casciana Terme are cool, with temperatures hovering around 40 F. The season calls for ribollita, a soup of Tuscan black cabbage and cannellini beans served with stale bread. Enjoy this classic dish with a glass of chianti classico next to a fire.

When spring rolls around, it brings vibrant flowers and comfortable weather to explore the outdoors. Take a leisurely stroll through Val d’Orcia and five postcard-worthy villages—Pienza (a UNESCO-recognized Renaissance village), San Quirico d’Orcia, Bagno Vignoni, and medieval gem Monticchiello.

Located in Siena province, a bit over an hour from the Tuscan coast, the valley offers well-marked trails that highlight all things "Tuscan"—tall cypress trees, vineyards, and breathtaking historic villages. In the spring, you’ll hike among poppies and wildflowers, and see farmers tending their fields and vines.

Caryn and her mom make linguini and ravioli from scratch in nearby Peccioli.|©Caryn Schneider

If your hike takes you through the hills of Pienza, be sure to stop at Podere il Casale for lunch and experience its neigh boring sheep farm and pecorino cheese.

In the summer heat, you can make the most of Tuscan wine and music festivals, outdoor dining, and local produce. Come mid-July, don’t miss the annual spectacular Teatro del Silenzio concert, as Maestro Andrea Bocelli performs in his home village of Lajatico, a mere 25 minutes from Casciana Terme.

While you’re there, stop at Cantina Bocelli to purchase his family’s wines and regional products.

On Thursdays, head to the Piazza della Martiri Libertà for a weekly market called the Mercato Settimanale Del Giovedì, where you can buy local breads, cheeses, meats, and produce.

One of my fondest memories of the market is when I took a deep breath and asked a vegetable vendor for mezzo chilo di pomodori rossi (a pound of small red toma-toes much like plum tomatoes). I watched the vendor put them in a little brown bag and weigh them. I was thrilled! He knew I wasn’t a native Italian speaker, but his nod of approval at my attempt was heartwarming.

Food, Friends, and Time-Honored Traditions

In November 2016, I took my mother to Casciana Terme for her 87th birthday.

The last time she’d been there was with my father 30 years prior. She had such fond memories of their travels. And as I’d been visiting annually for several years by then, I had friends to introduce her to and local spots to share.

We rented a Fiat 500 from Genoa and drove just over three hours to to my beloved farmhouse in Casciana Terme, where my mom and I shared a lovely two-bedroom apartment. We loved making breakfast with fresh breads, pastries, cheeses, local eggs… and cappuccinos.

No trip to Tuscany is complete without participating in the time-honored tradition of making pasta….

On my first trip to the region, I found a pasta-making class with a local guide company, Arianna & Friends, who offered "the most authentic tours in Tuscany." It’s a bold claim—but I’d say they live up to it. (It was Arianna who suggested to me Le Querciole, the farmhouse in Casciana Terme, because I wanted to be centrally based.)

I wanted mom to have a similar experience, so we drove the winding roads to the neighboring village of Peccioli to meet Arianna, who surprised us with a fully-planned itinerary, the focal point of which was a pasta-making class.

In a small group of nine, we learned to make linguini noodles from scratch, then artisanal ravioli filled with ricotta and herbs. Our chef had also prepared several sauces and side dishes for us to all share family style out on the patio. A light white wine and dessert made for a fabulous meal. We talked, laughed, and ate against the beautiful backdrop of Peccioli and the surrounding hills.

How to Get to Casciana Terme

Part of Casciana Terme’s charm is its remoteness… the best way to get there is by car. (Since I generally fly into Pisa, I use the car rental center at Pisa International Airport, Galileo Galilei).

To get to the town, I recommend taking the more scenic two-lane state and provisional roads (marked by SS or SP) over the much larger and faster SCG Fi-Pi-Li (Firenze-Pisa-Livorno) highway, especially if you’ve never been to the region before. You can take your time and soak in the views along the way.

About 30 minutes after leaving Pisa, watch for the town signs along the SP 13. Continue on until the road slightly rises and bends to the left. You’ll come to a small rotary. Bear off to the right and into the free parking lot.

Quintessential to all Italian communities, you’ll find yourself in Piazza della Martiri Libertà, the town’s main square.