Why Spring in Provence is Better Than Summer (And Few Visitors Realize it)

Why Spring in Provence is Better Than Summer (And Few Visitors Realize it)
Visitors to Provence in the Spring are in for a treat with mild but bright weather and beautiful landscapes.|©iStock/Marie-Claude Lemay

Arriving in the winter of 2010, it wasn’t until I’d lived a full year in Provence, France, that I really understood the full beauty of the region. I had to experience the changing of the seasons. Every year brings about a glorious shift… the leaves change, the vines grow brighter, and wildflowers roll across the vine-covered hills. It’s magical. Growing up in Southern California, I’d been convinced that it was quite heaven on earth. The days were filled with sunshine, views of the Pacific Ocean were a constant backdrop, and, apart from the growing cost-of-living, I couldn’t have imagined a more perfect place to call home. Provence changed all that.

Besides the quaintness of the cobblestone villages and the easy, put-your-feet-up-and-sip-rosé attitude, what really got me was the natural beauty of the region.

First off, there are four distinct seasons in Provence. Each more marvelous than the next.

Summer is the south of France’s “Hollywood” moment. Vacationers come from all corners of the planet to enjoy the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean and glistening sandy beaches. The yachts are plentiful, as are the transats (lounge chairs) that line the coast from Toulon to Nice.

Fall sees the arrival of the grape harvests—when the vines begin to turn from green to muted yellows and cracked oranges, culminating in vibrant reds that tumble across the countryside.

In winter, the coast sees pockets of sunshine mixed with rainy skies. Though surprising to many, it’s not unusual for country villages to get a light dusting of snow. While that might run quite contrary to our ideas of southern France, seeing a hilltop village like Gordes or Ménerbes blanked in white is a swoon-worthy experience.

Then there’s my favorite season, spring - arguably the best time of year to visit the south of France. If you can make your way to Provence during the months of April to early June, you’re in for a real treat.

Temperatures are mild, around the mid-to-high 70s with a few days dabbling in the low 80s, and the landscape is absolutely gorgeous.

Aix-en-Provence’s most famous son, Cezanne, featured a springtime star in several of his Impressionist paintings—including a personal favorite: Champ de Coquelicots, or Poppy Field.

The countryside is covered in a sea of red flowers, which flow gently in the spring breeze alongside olive trees and wild rosemary. With the vineyards and blonde-stone homes in the background, the scene captures the essence of Provence.

An ideal spot to enjoy the springtime beauty of the region is the area known as Les Alpilles—or little Alps. Some of the most picturesque and captivating scenery in all of Provence.

A quiet lane in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where daily life unfolds at a slower pace.
A quiet lane in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where daily life unfolds at a slower pace.|©iStock/Kirk Fisher

The cousin of the famous Alps Mountain range, this smaller chain is found near the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence—about a 30-minute drive from Avignon and 50 minutes from Marseille International Airport.

Another well-known artist, Van Gogh, painted the countryside around Saint Rémy during his time at the Saint Paul de Mausole asylum. He finished some 150 paintings during his time at the asylum—including Starry Night and several works that capture the magic of Les Alpilles countryside, including the Olive Tree series, the Iris series, and Almond Blossom.

The asylum and extensive gardens are available for visits and tours.

Les Alpilles are not only beautiful, but they also provide the backdrop to a collection of cozy villages, wineries, and Provencal farmhouses—called mas—that serve as bed and breakfasts.

We had the pleasure of staying at Mas Millesime in April a few years ago, about a 10-minute drive from Saint Rémy. The property includes a main stone farmhouse with guest bedrooms and two separate stone homes, with their own private pools, that can be rented out for the week. Rooms in the main building start at $190 a night. Surrounded by olive orchards and almond trees (they make their own almond-granola for breakfast), the mas feels like staying in a fairytale—south-of-France style. 

Our hosts prepared an evening aperitif for us of local wines, goat cheeses, and charcuterie before we headed off to dinner at Edu restaurant in Saint Rémy.

The town itself is definitely worth a visit. It has several delicious bistros (see La Table d’Yvan and L’Aile ou la Cuisee), an easily walkable historic center, and a lively farmers' market every Wednesday morning.

The day after our stay at Mas Millesime, we did our own walking tour of Eygalières village and had lunch at Chez Paulette ($50 for two)—where we enjoyed a Spritz and some good local gossip—seemingly a few of the only “tourists” in town.

Whether seaside or countryside, the magic of spring in Provence is not soon forgotten and makes an excellent add-on to any France tour.

Share