Greetings from Costa Rica! We’re thrilled to introduce ourselves as the 2024 winners of International Living’s Test-Drive Your Dream Life Overseas competition!
In July, we found out that IL would fund us for a thirty-day trip to Costa Rica to explore what it’s really like to live here in retirement. We cleared our work schedules for November, and now we’re diving into this adventure. Over the next four weeks, we’ll share our journey with you in this four-part series, documenting our experiences as we settle in and determine if Costa Rica is the right fit for us.
We’re Amy and Jim, a pair of 50-something lawyers from the heart of the Midwest. For the past 27 years, we’ve lived in a log cabin on the edge of a small tourist town. For years, we’ve told our friends we wanted to retire early and live overseas, and with our youngest son graduating from college in May, the timing feels perfect for taking the next step.
Costa Rica has always been high on our list, thanks to its popularity among expats. When we learned we’d won the contest, we had already planned exploratory trips to southern France’s Provence region and Portugal. It’s shaping up to be an exciting few months of travel and reflection as we compare these destinations and explore where our dream retirement life might unfold.
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Our Trip Begins!
Our Costa Rica adventure kicked off on U.S. election day, November 5—and yes, we made sure to vote before we left. We met our adult son and his girlfriend at the San José airport after their flight from the West Coast. They joined us for the first week of our stay.
The first two days were focused on establishing our home base apartment at Hotel Villas de la Colina in Atenas. By the end of week one, we already felt like we were living in a home away from home. After settling in, we took our son and his girlfriend on a short trip to La Fortuna, where we hiked Mystico with the hanging bridges, relaxed in the hot mineral springs, and enjoyed a coffee and chocolate tour.
Surprises: Costa Rica in the Rainy Season
One of our biggest surprises has been just how much the rainy season impacts our mood and plans. During our first week, it rained every single day—sometimes a light drizzle, other times a full-on downpour.
We came prepared with quick-drying clothes and waterproofed gear, including backpacks, hiking shoes, and hats. But what we weren’t ready for was the emotional toll of the nearly constant rain and the gray, dreary skies. Our research led us to believe that rain typically falls in the late afternoon, but we quickly learned it’s far less predictable. Locals were quick to tell us to ignore weather apps—they’re useless in a rainforest—and they were absolutely right!
We’re crossing our fingers for a bit of sunshine next week to brighten both the weather and our spirits.
Our Home Base: Atenas and Hotel Villas de la Colina
We love our two-bedroom, one-bath apartment at Hotel Villas de la Colina. It meets all our needs and is conveniently located eight minutes from Atenas. Our 800-square-foot apartment is small but has everything we need. It’s similar in comfort and amenities to other tourist rentals we’ve stayed in, but with a discount for a 30-day rental, it’s affordable at under $900.
Despite its small size, our apartment has great views from the balcony and even better views from the breakfast terrace of the mountains and valley, where we also sit to write our reports.
More importantly, our hotel allows us to connect with our hosts and other guests for local recommendations. Tanya is Costa Rican, and her husband, Kevin, is American. They’ve offered numerous tips we could only learn from locals. Without their advice, we would have struggled with decisions about where to shop, how to park, and where to walk and visit. Staying here reminds us how crucial it is to build relationships when moving to any overseas country.
Lesson Learned: Renting for Retirement in Costa Rica
While staying in this small rental, we realized we’d want a few more amenities if we lived here longer. Specifically, we’d look for a larger, more comfortable living area, more outdoor space, and a washing machine. (Dryers are uncommon; clothes are typically dried on a clothesline.)
If we were to make a permanent move, we’d follow the advice of Costa Rican relocation experts: start with a short-term tourist rental for a month or two while scouting for long-term options within our budget. We’ve learned that many rental properties aren’t listed online, so tapping into local networks—chatting with expats, consulting a real estate advisor, and relying on word of mouth—is essential.
We also understand that buying property in Costa Rica is a process that requires professional guidance and a lot of patience. Selling, as an expat, is even more complicated. Renting offers the flexibility to move if needed, which we’d prefer as we settle into life here.
Adjustments and Challenges to Retirement Life in Costa Rica
Costa Rica offers many wonderful aspects for retirees: the (usually) pleasant weather, the kindness of the Ticos, and the abundance of affordable fresh fruits and vegetables year-round. But some idiosyncrasies of daily life here take getting used to. Here are a few from our first week:
Driving on Costa Rican Roads
While some retirees happily live here without a car, we want to explore the country, so access to a vehicle is essential. My husband deserves a medal for capably driving us on narrow, winding mountain roads.
Most roads here are barely two lanes wide and snake along mountainous ridges, requiring rapt attention and slow speeds. A 20-mile trip can easily take an hour. We’ve encountered pedestrians, cyclists, potholes, and even construction barrels just in the eight-minute drive to Atenas. Add darkness and rain, and driving becomes a white-knuckle experience. If we had to name the top challenge to life in Costa Rica, it would be driving.
Early to Bed and Early to Rise
Located near the equator and without daylight savings time, Costa Rica enjoys consistent sunrise and sunset times, typically between 5 and 6 a.m. and p.m. This means earlier bedtimes and wake-up calls. The hardest part is that evenings feel much later than they are, affecting dinner plans and evening activities.
Parking in Atenas Made Easier
Thanks to Tanya and Kevin, we downloaded ePark CR, Atenas’s parking app, which lets us pay from our phone and bank unused time for later. This tip has saved us from parking tickets multiple times!
We Need to Work on Our Spanish
Assimilating into the culture requires better Spanish skills. My husband, though rusty, tries, while I know almost no Spanish. The locals are patient, often switching to English, but we know language proficiency is key to successful integration.
Looking Forward to Next Week
As we reflect on our first week, we’re learning what retirement in Costa Rica could mean for us: balancing natural beauty and cultural immersion with practical considerations like housing and transportation.
Next week, we plan to explore the southern Pacific Coast and meet more expats. Follow us as we try to live like the Ticos and embrace Pura Vida. We’ll report back weekly!
Follow more of our adventures on our Facebook page, Travels with Amy and Jim!
How To Move Out of the U.S.
How To Move Out of the U.S.
The policy implications of this election will impact your retirement funds, taxes, healthcare, and more. But you can protect yourself, your family, your future. In lots of safe, warm, friendly spots abroad, you can live comfortably on a budget from $2,000-$3,800 a month (all-in—housing and extras included). We’ll show you how—and where—to go.
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