“Many parks in Costa Rica have parrots... but here we have actual sloths.”
Kids run past. People leave the supermarket carrying bags. A woman waves down a taxi. It is a busy morning in central Limón—all while a sloth slowly climbs down a tree in the central square, right in the middle of it all.
Sloths descend only about once a week, usually to relieve themselves, which makes spotting one on the ground especially unusual. Most of the time, they stay overhead, like in Parque Recreativo Cariari near Playa Bonita, where sloths and monkeys move quietly through the branches above dense vegetation. Nearby trails and a natural tide pool add to the jungle vibe.
Just a short drive away, cargo cranes, container ships, and cruise ships shape another side of Limón’s daily life. From here, cruise passengers head out on day trips to Tortuguero National Park, Cahuita National Park, and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
This is a place where tropical nature, Afro-Caribbean history, and everyday coastal life converge—often with reggae drifting through the air. That blend is exactly what drew Simone here.
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Why Limón Felt Different
For Simone Kist (48), a Canadian expat now living in Limón full-time with her retired husband, Kirk Giddy (65), Limón offered something they had not found anywhere else in Costa Rica: value, cultural depth, and an everyday closeness to nature.
When researching Limón, people often hear they should stay clear. “People often describe Limón as dangerous or unattractive, even if they have never spent real time here,” Simone says. She describes Limón as gritty and unpolished, with older buildings, yet vibrant and comfortable.
In her experience, she has felt safe, unharassed, and more integrated than in other parts of the country.
Though Simone had been coming to Costa Rica since the mid-1990s, after her parents moved to the country and later ran small hotels, this is the first time she has lived here permanently.
She and her husband first lived in Santa Ana in 2023, then began exploring rentals along the Caribbean coast—from near the Panama border all the way north.
Limón stood out, even though it’s not a popular expat destination.
Affordable Living on the Caribbean Coast

The couple’s decision came down to lifestyle and budget. They chose an apartment in a gated property with sea views for about $460 a month. The apartment’s veranda looks out over town and down the coast. They can walk downtown for shopping and errands. “We chose the one here in Limón because we loved the apartment itself so much,” she said. “It just felt secure, open, and airy.”
Lower costs, practical convenience, and a local feel are what keep them there. Simone says that rents along the Caribbean coast can still range from around $300 to $700 a month, depending on location and style, and Limón offers the best value. “It’s not a tourist town,” she explained. “It’s a local town with tons of wildlife, river tours, banana plantation visits, small museums, kayaking, and island excursions.”
Limón’s local identity comes from its Afro-Caribbean roots, connected to railroad and banana plantation history and to a strong Black Caribbean identity that continues today. Marcus Garvey also spent time here, and his early ideas about the Black Star Line are part of Limón’s broader story.
This heritage is evident—coconut rice and beans, domino games, and annual celebrations like the Day of the Black Person and Carnival, which celebrate Afro-Caribbean pride with colorful parades and vibrant music. Restaurants like Lizzie 1872 highlight the area’s African and Afro-Caribbean heritage.
Daily Life: Shopping, Healthcare, and Weekends by the Sea
Daily life in Limón is simple, affordable, and practical. Simone teaches English online, often working long days from home, grading assessments between classes while sea breezes move through the apartment. They live on her teaching income and her husband’s Canadian pension.
Their rent and utilities together come to about $500 a month. Electricity runs about $30 per month (no air conditioning in their apartment, but it has great airflow), and water costs about $10 per month. Simone estimates they spend around $800 a month total on groceries and pet supplies.
“Shopping in Limón is great—it’s cheap,” she said, noting that the city has plenty of shoe stores, beauty supply shops, supermarkets, and other essentials. For regular groceries, they use stores like Pali, Maxi Palí, and Mas x Menos. For specialty items, especially vegan products, they drive south to the Super Negro Supermarket in Cahuita. Simone also likes stopping at Aroma Coffee Bar & Breakfast, where a full vegan menu offers dishes not found in Limón.
Medical care is also easier to access than many people might expect. Limón has public and private options, including specialists, imaging, and ultrasounds. While she uses the public Caja system, she admits that the local hospital can be crowded and exhausting for urgent care. Private doctor visits typically run about $50.
She and her husband mostly spend time with local friends rather than other expats. They also take advantage of the surrounding coast. They spend time at Playa Bonita, Cieneguita, and Piuta, drawn to the local family atmosphere.
Cahuita is 45 minutes away, and Puerto Viejo is about 70 minutes, so weekends often include a beach day, a meal out, or an occasional weekend away in Puerto Viejo. If the sea is calm, the couple spends time in the National Park in Cahuita, and then heads to Playa Negra, also a popular surfing beach, to have some beers and eat lunch at the Reggae Bar.
Limón is not for everyone. The humidity is constant, and it lacks the polished aesthetic many expats look for. But for people who value affordability, culture, and a laid-back Caribbean rhythm, Limón can satisfy your soul.
As Simone reflects, “Limón is a place for living—not a place built for tourists.”
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