Our 14-Year Expat Journey: Why We Left Everything for a New Life Abroad

Don and Diane Murray's story
Don and Diane’s journey from Florida to Mexico—embracing adventure and a new life abroad.|©Diane Murray

Except for the contents of six large duffle bags staged in the driveway and our beloved Chihuahua, we owned absolutely nothing. We had sold, given away, or trashed nearly every possession that two retired adults might be expected to accumulate over a lifetime.

Our home—along with all furnishings, vehicles, major appliances, and almost all our clothing—was gone. Fishing gear, golf clubs, the contents of every drawer and cupboard, tools, bicycles, and electronics, as well as my prized bright-yellow unicycle—gone. OK! I lied about the unicycle. Never owned one. Can’t ride one.

The past few months had been a whirlwind of garage sales, auctions, and donations. Item by item, we had gradually minimized our possessions to only the essentials. I had also spent many hours refining several versions of our budget.

In the midst of this planned upheaval, we navigated the early stages of a complex visa application process. It all felt overwhelming, exciting, and sometimes terrifying. But freeing ourselves from all that stuff was also weirdly liberating. What came next was the main event.

Settling in Ecuador: The Adventure Begins

Don and Diane arriving in Quito, ready to embark on their new expat adventure in Ecuador.
Don and Diane arriving in Quito, ready to embark on their new expat adventure in Ecuador.|©Diane Murray

In 2011, International Living had recently named Ecuador a top-rated destination for prospective expats, and we were ready to go. Facing retirement and the dire economic situation in the U.S. at the time, we knew we needed to take bold action.

Soon, we would board a flight to build a new life in a South American country that would become the springboard for an amazing 14-year (and counting) expat adventure. When the airport van arrived, we heaved the duffels into the back.

Oh, I should probably mention—we had never set foot in Ecuador before.

This is the part where you might think, “These guys are nuts—perhaps even idiots!” Frankly, there were a few times when I thought the same. My wife, Diane, however, never wavered. She was all-in from the beginning.

We did our homework, and Ecuador looked pretty good to us. We committed. A small town on Ecuador’s coast in Manabí province was our destination.

Despite our limited Spanish skills, we saw this as our best option for an adventurous and economical retirement. However, at our stage of life, one doesn’t sell all their belongings and replant themselves in a foreign country—with an unfamiliar language—without stepping far beyond their comfort zone…where most adventures reside.

With eight years in the Air Force and a couple of tours in Vietnam, I was well-versed in the “bloom where you’re planted” philosophy. But I was concerned about Diane. I suggested we visit Ecuador before making the move, but she insisted that spending a couple of weeks there wouldn’t be enough to decide if it was the right place to live.

“We’d be wasting money better spent on our permanent relocation,” she said. “Let’s just go. We’ll figure it out.” She was right, but I suspect most people would have rejected that idea.

I think it was then that we adopted the “burn our ship” philosophy, inspired by Spanish invader Hernán Cortez.

His exhausted men had wanted to return to Spain rather than complete their mission to conquer Mexico’s Aztec empire. Cortez scuttled his own ships, making a return impossible.

Diane and I often reminded ourselves that we had “burned our ship,” and returning to the U.S. was not an option. Technically, it was—but each time we faltered, we renewed our commitment by remembering Cortez.

We loved Ecuador, and our confidence grew. We took Spanish lessons, and immersion in the culture accelerated our learning, though I still struggled.

The people were warm, authentic, and welcoming. The cost of living was significantly lower than in Florida. The climate was perfect, and our coastal location provided access to the freshest seafood imaginable. The vegetables at the open market were so fresh, they still had dirt on them. We made friends and even found a favorite beach bar up the coast in Canoa.

We had found our comfort—until I encountered significant health issues.

A New Chapter: Moving to Mexico for Health and Happiness

Cancún’s beaches were our front yard for four years, offering stunning views and relaxation.
Cancún’s beaches were our front yard for four years, offering stunning views and relaxation.|©Diane Murray

After two fantastic years, my heart condition became more complicated, requiring specialized care not readily available near us. We did not want to permanently return to the States and began to look at other Latin American countries closer to the U.S. Mexico was an obvious choice, but that meant leaving our newly adopted home, our friends, our favorite beach bar, and even the local store where I once asked for a “bag of water, very cold and hard” before I knew the Spanish word for ice.

As wives often do, Diane took a loving but firm position—our move was essential for the sake of my health. No discussion was necessary. Yep, we were leaving. We sold Diane’s motor scooter, the one she rode every week to her tennis lessons. Our rugged four-wheel-drive rig, Rocky, went to an incoming expat, and we planned a small farewell get-together at our favorite beach bar. There were hugs, a few tears, and promises to stay in touch. We were better than OK with it all. We saw life as a journey; the bumps, curves, dead ends, and detours were to be expected. The journey doesn’t end when the route changes.

As my Spanish had moved from horrible to less horrible and Diane’s had improved significantly into “not embarrassing,” moving to Mexico was not intimidating at all. Internet research revealed the Yucatán Peninsula was beautiful and safe and had the added benefit of being close to the U.S. by air.

Research showed Cancún and Mérida, both cities on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, looked like great options. Each appeared to offer comfortable lifestyles, but in different ways. And both had international airports, putting Florida about 1.5 hours away.

We arranged for a furnished condo on the beach in Cancún and a nicely furnished house in Mérida. We figured we’d spend time in both places before making a long-term commitment. We completed an easy visa application for Mexican residency, were quickly approved, and soon boarded a plane to Cancún for the next chapter of our grand retirement adventure. It was far less traumatic the second time.

We landed in Cancún and took a taxi to our condo, only steps from the gorgeous Caribbean Sea. Diane was in heaven. She adored living on the beach. We quickly bought a car, and after a few weeks, we finally drove to Mérida to check out our other house. The goal was to decide between the two places within 90 days.

The home in Mérida was lovely, but it could not compete with the condo in Cancún, at least according to beach-girl Diane. To be honest, I’m not a big-city kind of guy. I lived in Alaska for 20 years and feel most comfortable in smaller communities, away from crowds. The pace of life in large cities disrupts my internal mechanisms. But Cancún, though large and hectic, did provide a beautiful Caribbean beach as our front yard. That added bonus points. Plus, Diane deserved her beach time—she had earned it after living in Alaska. It was her turn now.

I didn’t hate the beach, but I also didn’t share Diane’s passion. I got my pleasure from experiencing her joy, and there was plenty of that.

Mérida was also a large city—very historic—and had great hospitals, modern malls, banks, and everything that big cities offer. But there was no beach, hence, no bonus points. We both agreed this was to be our beach chapter.

Of those first 90 days, we spent only a couple of weeks in Mérida, and after the 90 days ended, we terminated our lease.

Cancún was like living each day as a Caribbean vacation. Days were filled with beach time, stunning views, plentiful shopping, and wonderful restaurants—though we usually ate at home.

After four years in Cancún, we realized that living in the Caribbean’s most popular tourist destination came with some warts.

Parking was nearly non-existent, crowds of people swarmed the city like armies of ants, traffic was unbearable, and the constant, obvious hustle to extract every possible tourist dollar just felt icky. Plus, the cost of living was equal to or greater than our previous lives in Florida, while the moist, salty air of beachfront living quickly ruined all electronics. Yet, Mexico had captured us.

It’s an enormous country with varied terrain—stunning beaches, jungles, mountains, and ancient archaeological ruins scattered throughout. And, of course, the food is awesome.

Finding Home in a Maya Village

Don and Diane with their Maya friends in ceremonial warrior attire in Ek Balam.
Don and Diane with their Maya friends in ceremonial warrior attire in Ek Balam.|©Diane Murray

From Cancún, we spent significant time exploring. We sought “the real Mexico”—those towns away from hordes of tourists or dense populations of expats; places where English wasn’t spoken and there were no expensive resorts… areas where our presence was a novelty rather than the norm. The vast majority of Mexico fits this description.

One of the most interesting places we discovered was the tiny Maya village of Ek’ Balam. Situated inland in the jungles of the Yucatán Peninsula, this area is noted for its ancient Maya ruins, spectacular caves, and large underground pools called cenotes.

The village is home to some 450 residents and sits adjacent to the ancient archaeological ruins of the same name.

The primary language in Ek’ Balam is Yucatec Mayan, with Spanish as the second language. The homes in the village are a blend of traditional stick-built nahs, made entirely from materials gathered from the surrounding jungle, and simple concrete block structures. Kitchens are separate buildings, and all cooking is done using gathered wood for cooking fires. Baking is often done in traditional pibs—pits dug into the ground where fires are built and meats are buried among the hot coals.

The enchanting, peaceful village of Ek’ Balam is where we have lived for the past eight years. We could have moved anywhere on the planet, including back to the U.S., if the appropriate medical care had been available. With little hesitation, we chose to build our final home here, in Ek’ Balam.

In 30 minutes, we can be in historic Valladolid, with modern supermarkets, a traditional open market, car dealerships, banks, hotels, and restaurants. In two hours, we can either be at Cancún International Airport or, in a different direction, in Mérida for a day of shopping at Costco and lunch at Texas Roadhouse.

The home we built is a steel-reinforced, concrete block and stone structure. It’s 1,000 square feet, with a stone foundation laid upon bedrock about four feet below the surface. It is a contemporary, air-conditioned fortress, expertly constructed to our specifications for aging in place. We have a generator wired into the household circuit, which kicks in when grid outages occur. Our kitchen utilizes both gas and electricity. Our internet is fiber optic and costs $20 per month for unlimited use. Water is provided free to all residents of the village; however, we have recently drilled a well in partnership with our neighbors for backup purposes. We strive to be self-sufficient. The cost of living is low enough that our fixed retirement income is more than sufficient. We built our house out-of-pocket for about $35,000—including materials, land, and labor.

Our self-sufficient home in Ek Balam, built for comfort and peace in the Yucatán jungle.
Our self-sufficient home in Ek Balam, built for comfort and peace in the Yucatán jungle.|©Diane Murray

The only traffic delays we experience here are caused by an occasional flock of turkeys, a dog napping in the road, or a neighbor herding his goats. The constant sounds of local birds and the occasional parrot, mixed with barking dogs and crowing roosters, provide the soundtrack for our life. I have never heard a police siren here.

And it’s safe. We haven’t locked our door in eight years. We also have a small, capable team of helpers to assist us—something we could not afford in the U.S.

Lessons from a Life Abroad: Advice for Future Expats

Living abroad takes time and trust—opportunities come with patience and community integration.
Living abroad takes time and trust—opportunities come with patience and community integration.|©Dianne Murray

Before you buy your ticket and seek to replicate what we have done, it’s important to understand that indigenous land throughout Mexico is protected and intended for indigenous occupants.

We had lived in this village for several years, naturally integrating with the community, before land was offered to us for purchase. The village elders approved and welcomed us, and three generations of family members agreed to sell their family-owned land to us.

A day rarely passes without either Diane or me saying how lucky we are to have found—or possibly created—such a wonderful combination of compromises.

You may wonder how my beach girl is doing, living in a tiny Maya village two hours from the Caribbean. Like me, she loves our life here. Her best friend from Ecuador just spent an amazing week with us in the village. Both Diane and I turned the page on the beach chapter with no regrets. And, of course, Cancún is only two hours away—an easy day trip.

Life’s circumstances regularly change, and someday, you may also feel the need to take bold action. I offer two pieces of advice.

First, while considering where on the planet your next adventure will begin, start by seeking the best visa options that match your needs. Every country has specific requirements that must be met before granting residency. International Living offers a variety of resources to assist you.

Next—and most importantly—never permit fear to steal the life you could have. You never know how many ticks remain on your clock.

Buena suerte!

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