Why I Chose Acqui Terme: A Pilot’s Guide to the Perfect Italian Retreat

On my first night in a small Italian town called Acqui Terme, I wandered into Piazza Della Bollente in the medieval center of this historic community, and nabbed a table at Pizza Ristorante Vecchio Borgo.

Framed by Romanesque columns, the pizzeria’s outdoor seating area offered a magnificent view of La Bollente ("the boiling")—thermal springs that bubble up in the plaza center at a consistent 166 F. On either side of the steaming waters, steps lead up to a magnificent marble Greek-style temple.

That evening, I watched locals come and go, filling jugs and anointing themselves with the healing water.

I ordered a bottle of Langhe Nebbiolo, a rich and luscious red wine made from the same grape that made Barolo—"The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings"—famous, along with a bottle of frizzante, Italian sparkling water. The water and wine washed down a delicious wood oven-fired thin-crust diavola (devil) pizza made with zesty tomato sauce and spicy salami.

The server hailed from Albania and spoke fluent English. When I asked for her name, she replied it was Hope. This proved serendipitous… I’d come to Acqui Terme in search of the perfect second home… and found it.

All I Wanted in a European Home

Acqui Terme centers around La Bollente, the town’s healing thermal springs.|©iStock/maudanros

For many, Italy conjures up images of tourist-infested urban centers… or isolated historic villages.

I sought something different for a place to hang my hat, a place where I could enjoy all Italy has to offer… but without the crowds and without giving up the conveniences of modern living.

It couldn’t be too big and busy, nor too small and isolated. What I wanted was the perfect mix of charm, location, and amenities—a place to unwind and do nothing at all, or get up and go exploring.

I grew up in Coeur d’Alene, a beautiful lake town in Northern Idaho, and joined the Air Force to satisfy my eternal quest for adventure. After four decades traveling the globe as a military transport and international airline pilot (nearly 70 countries so far), I needed a place to land; somewhere centrally located with easy access to continental Europe. I wasn’t seeking European residency, but a second home to spend up to 90 days at a time, perhaps doing the Schengen hop.

I focused my search on southern Europe, and northern Italy in particular, as a logical central location. From there, the rest of Europe is easily accessible by road—my preferred method for exploring.

My second consideration was easy access from the US, with year-round direct flights to and from an international gateway airport. I also wanted multiple day-tripping options, including large cities, historic villages, beaches, ski areas, and wine regions.

Climate was a third consideration. I wanted a place that was relatively warm, and the Piemonte is south of the Alps, with little to no snow in the lower elevations.

I also wanted a small town, yet one with all the professional services I needed within walking distance. Equally important was an array of food establishments and cultural activities (an outdoor market, festivals, arts, and entertainment). Affordable housing also ranked high on the list.

I found all this and more—my perfect place—in Acqui Terme, named for the geothermal waters that spring forth in the center of town. "Acqui" (for short) lies in the Piemonte region of Northern Italy, and has a reputation as a resort town. The Romans discovered it first, giving it a rich and storied history.

Welcome to Acqui

Acqui Terme has less than 25,000 residents, but a surprisingly large array of services, including a hospital. The entire town is walkable from end-to-end in less than 30 minutes. The center is dense, with abundant apartments. As you leave town, these give way to houses and small farms in the vineyards and hills.

I was struck immediately by Acqui Terme’s small-town feel. Its pedestrian-only historic town center is the main gathering place for locals and visitors alike. Reminiscent of the alleyways of Rome, the charming cobbled lanes are chock-full of cafes, restaurants, wine bars, gelato shops, and retail stores.

Nineteenth-century architectural gems also line the streets, along with a few Roman ruins, including remnants of an aqueduct and fountain that highlight the importance of water to the city. Within the historical area, there are several old churches and a Duomo, the 11th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta.

There’s also a small outdoor amphitheater with summer concerts beneath the walls of Castello dei Paleologi, a medieval fortress overlooking the town. It houses an archeological museum rich in artifacts dating to the Roman period. Ancient vines of wisteria adorn its walls, their violet cascades heralding good luck, kindness, love, and longevity.

Friday is one of Acqui’s twice-weekly market days, when residents from area villages pour in for their shopping needs. Streets throughout the historic district are filled with handicrafts and baked goods, plus a full array of high-quality clothing, imports, and household goods. The scene rivals markets I’ve seen in larger urban cities across Europe.

The farmers market in Acqui fills an entire piazza alone. Animated, vocal stall vendors beckon passers-by to choose from vast amounts of colorful local produce. I was pleasantly surprised by the variety, size, quality, and affordability of the fruits and vegetables.

On my first market venture, two cheese wagons on either side of the square offered fresh epicurean delights from throughout Italy and Europe. Butcher shops on adjacent streets featured huge displays of fresh and cured meats, with full prosciutto hams and strings of sausages hanging overhead. Other shops featured fresh whole seafood on ice, sourced from the nearby waters and ports of the Italian Riviera. I also found fresh Porcini mushrooms and truffles in shops dedicated to these local specialties.

Wonderful smells wafted from the many restaurants in the area, most with outdoor seating. Festive banners hung over the streets. Young professionals overflowed from the cafes, elderly friends chatted, and groups of teenagers flirted. Residents strolled the promenade with their dogs… and it seemed meandering with a gelato was mandatory.

How to Get to Acqui Terme

Piazza Italia, the heart of Acqui Terme, is a hub of local life and Roman history.|©iStock/Flavio Vallenari

Acqui Terme has good access roads spoking from the town in every direction. It’s just 97 miles from the Milan Malpensa Airport via high-speed autostrada toll roads for the first hour, then a well-maintained provincial highway for the last 40 minutes.

From Malpensa, head south on SS336, then take the A4 west towards Torino, the A26 south towards Alessandria, then exit the autostrada at Alessandria Sud and proceed west onto SP30, to Acqui.

Regional airports in Turin and Genoa are just over an hour away, with connections to the rest of Europe. Genoa is a major seaport, with Mediterranean cruises starting, ending, or stopping there. The rail station in town has two tracks and connections to the entire European rail network.

Historic Homes from $30,000

One of my main draws to Acqui was the low cost and number of housing options available. Through Idealista.ie, I found an abundance of apartments close to the town center, ranging from fixer-uppers for €30,000 ($30,810) to fully renovated and new units starting around €80,000 ($82,161).

In just three days, I found my place—a large apartment of over 1,400 square feet with four bedrooms, plus a large living room, bath, and kitchen. Located in a 10-unit, five-story detached building, it was listed for just €65,000 ($66,780). On a hilltop just across the street from the historic district, my 4th-floor unit features balconies on three sides, with views of the surrounding hills, town, and church steeples.

It needed a facelift due to old peeling wallpaper in every room, but the terrazzo floors, bathroom fixtures, tiles, doors, and windows were all in good shape. I would also need to upgrade the electrical system and install a kitchen (most Italians take kitchen appliances and fixtures when they move).

All in all, I found a tremendous value. With renovations now completed and the apartment furnished, I intend to enjoy visits from family and friends during my 90 days, then make it available for short-term rentals.

Adventures Outside Acqui Terme

Acqui’s location is ideal for day-tripping and exploration. In every direction there are quaint and historic small towns with medieval churches and castles.

Plus, in less than an hour, you can enjoy virtually all of the world-renowned Piemonte wine region, where Brunello, Barolo (the "King of Wines"), and sparkling Asti Spumante (and other white wines) are produced. I recommend Marchesi di Barolo winery, where Barolo was first produced, and Duchessa Lia, where you can find the largest selection and variety of fine Piemonte wines.

In the fall, you can head to Asti for the Palio di Asti, a festival dating to medieval times, where local communities participate in a variety of costumed events and parades. It culminates in a dramatic bareback horse race for the prize—the Palio.

Alba, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is close as well, with many architectural gems and an annual fall International Truffle Festival. It also has its own Palio event, featuring donkey races.

In less than two hours, you can travel to the urban centers of Milan, Genoa, and Turin, each with their unique culture and history.

Several Italian and Swiss Alps ski resorts, Italy’s lake region (including Lake Como), the Italian Riviera with its beaches and coastal cities, plus the five scenic towns of the Cinque Terre are also all within a two-hour radius.

Within four hours, you can be exploring Monaco, Nice, Florence, Pisa, Venice, Bologna, and Verona, or parts of France, Switzerland, and Austria.

Acqui Terme met all my essential criteria for retirement living and travel aspirations. It’s perfect for me.