Why Pratumnak Hill Might Be Thailand’s Best Neighborhood for Expats

In my time overseas, I’ve lived in some cool neighborhoods. From Glyfada Beach in Greece to Danang in Vietnam to the Japanese quarter in Bangkok, finding the right spot at the right time in your life can be magical.

My current residence is in Jomtien Beach on Thailand’s Eastern Seaboard, but for the past month, I’ve lived in an adjacent neighborhood while my condo undergoes renovations. I booked an Airbnb on the 19th floor of a high-rise condo building on Pratumnak Hill.

After a month of living on “The Hill,” I can confidently say that it ticks more boxes for expat living than any place I’ve ever been.

Where is Pratumnak Hill?

Sunset over Koh Larn from Sky Gallery—an unforgettable Pratumnak Hill moment.|©Barton Walters

Most people who’ve considered living in Thailand know about the dynamic seaside resort city of Pattaya, two hours south of Bangkok. Many have also heard of its sleepier sister down the coast, Jomtien Beach. Separating these two distinctly different beach towns is a large forested headland jutting out into the Gulf of Thailand and rising 300 feet above sea level. That’s Pratumnak Hill.

I chose Pratumnak Hill to wait out my renovation because I have several friends living there, and my favorite gym is there as well. Come to think of it, so is my favorite coffee shop, French restaurant, and live music bar.

The Hill is divided into two sections with remarkably different vibes. The northern half connects to Pattaya Beach at the end of the infamous “Walking Street” and Bali Hai Pier, where visitors board ferries and speedboats to various island destinations. This part of The Hill is home to some of the region’s most posh hotels, like The Intercontinental and The Royal Cliff, with their private beaches and five-star restaurants.

Residents in the northern part of Pratumnak enjoy breathtaking views from a collection of condo buildings, ranging from cozy low-rises to towering skyscrapers. On holiday weekends, well-heeled Bangkokians make the two-hour drive to savor international cuisine, sip umbrella drinks, and create Instagram magic at one of The Hill’s swanky cliffside restaurants.

Watching the sun set behind Koh Larn Island from the Sky Gallery on Pratumnak Hill is a soul-soothing experience everyone should have at least once in their lifetime.

Although the northern half of Pratumnak is slightly more expensive than the southern half, rents are still reasonable. A studio with a sea view costs about $450 a month, while a larger one-bedroom costs around $600.

Food, Fun, and People

Soi 5 buzzes with global cuisines, cozy coffee spots, and vibrant evening hangouts.|©Barton Walters

I prefer the southern half of The Hill, as it’s not nearly as pretentious and, in my opinion, has much more personality. Food, fun, and people make this part of the neighborhood so desirable.

Four long streets (called sois in Thai) lead from Pratumnak Road down to Jomtien Bay, each with its own identity.

Soi 4

Soi 4 is lined with older high-rise condo buildings, newer-era condotels, and an eclectic mix of restaurants and pubs. At the beach end of the soi is the famous Birds and Bees Resort, owned by Mechai Viravaidya, a Thai philanthropist and ex-politician who introduced the concept of family planning to Thailand. The resort houses the renowned Cabbages & Condoms Thai restaurant overlooking the bay. Despite its quirky name, the food is incredible, and the views are spectacular.

This soi is also gaining a reputation as a “breakfast street,” with several small restaurants and co-working cafes specializing in breakfast options ranging from healthy to indulgent. My favorite is the Sunflour Village Eatery, with its Californian flair and a mix of hearty dishes and decadent pastries. A massive “everything omelet” with coffee, toast, and bacon costs less than $6.

Soi 5

Morning vibes at King of Coffee Cafe: open-air charm and fresh Northern Thai brews for under $1.50.|©Barton Walters

Soi 5 is an action-packed street bristling with restaurants offering global cuisines, as well as an eclectic collection of coffee shops, pubs, and music bars. Residents of this soi often congregate at King of Coffee Cafe in the morning, enjoying the open-air atmosphere and the aroma of freshly roasted coffee beans from Northern Thailand. A large Americano costs less than $1.50.

In the evening, the neighborhood comes alive. It’s common to see newcomers frozen with indecision, trying to choose between the countless dining options. Brick oven pizza at Dom’s? Fajitas at Chi Cha? Smashburgers at Krakken? My personal favorite is Kickin’ Chicken, a cozy spot serving American soul food, owned by Tommy Watson, a retired U.S. Army veteran. Their chicken-and-waffles dish has a devoted local following.

World-Class People Watching

On this soi, you can play pool, watch sports, hear live music, and even sing with the band—sometimes all in the same venue! My go-to spot is Bentley’s, an upscale English pub with a Thai-style open-air setup, located at a busy crossroads. While I could claim I go there for the $2 pints of Chang beer, the truth is I’m drawn by the unparalleled people-watching opportunities.

Here, you’ll find Russian tourists, European snowbirds, Aussies, Brits, Indians, Malays, Koreans, Japanese visitors, and crusty old U.S. expats like me mingling together in a delightful tapestry of humanity.

Expats on Pratumnak Hill

Expats connect over cold beers and lively conversation at The Island Bar’s community gathering.|©Barton Walters

One evening, I attended a bi-weekly meeting of the Pratumnak Community Networking Group at The Checkpoint, a food court with around ten pint-sized kiosks. Each specializes in a handful of dishes, executed to perfection. This is my favorite way to enjoy Thai food—authentic, delicious, and budget-friendly. A hearty meal costs less than $6 per person.

The meeting took place at the back of The Island Bar, a charming, Tiki-themed mini beach bar offering cold draught beer and an array of fruity cocktails. Here, I met Kraig, the bar’s friendly owner from San Diego, and his wife, Jane, expertly manning the beer tap. There was Mike from San Francisco, who recently retired after more than 30 years in government service, and Peter, a retired photographer and videographer from Australia. I also met Kim, the group’s organizer and an English expat who works as an actor in Thai movies, TV shows, and commercials. The gathering was a lively mix of characters—a Scottish guy who owns a pie shop, a retired U.S. Marine, an American couple running a small hotel. It was a true expat-tossed salad!

With 2-for-1 beers in hand, we grooved to a jazzy reggae playlist and enjoyed animated conversations about everything—except politics and religion. It was one of the most delightful evenings I’ve had in ages. Fascinating people, engaging topics, and a refreshing absence of anyone taking themselves too seriously.

What stood out to me most about this group was their positivity. Expats gatherings can sometimes devolve into “complaint sessions,” focusing on the frustrations of living abroad or criticizing the local culture. But not here. This group embodied the spirit of the Land of Smiles—friendly, open, and optimistic.

When I asked Mike what he loved most about living on Pratumnak Hill, he summed it up perfectly: “This is the least boring place I’ve ever lived.”

Later, I heard about the “Russian Market” on Soi 6, a quieter street with a mix of low- and mid-rise condos and hotels. Despite its name, the highlight here isn’t Russian cuisine but the vibrant Thai Night Market, brimming with food from around the globe—though fresh seafood is undoubtedly the star. Every evening, the courtyard comes alive with tourists, snowbirds, locals, and expats feasting on grilled squid, steamed crabs, coconut shrimp, and whole fish cooked any way you like. For those less keen on seafood, there are hearty options like barbecue ribs and chicken roasted in traditional earthen jars. Remarkably, you could arrive with just $10, leave completely stuffed, and still have enough for a motorbike taxi home.

The expats I met frequent the market three or four times a week—sometimes for takeaway, sometimes to sit in the courtyard, soaking in the lively atmosphere, enjoying the sounds of Thai music, and indulging in a bit of people-watching.

Fitness on The Hill

From open-air gyms to Muay Thai academies, Pratumnak Hill offers fitness options for every lifestyle.|©Barton Walters

With so much delicious food, staying active is essential. Fortunately, Pratumnak Hill offers excellent fitness options.

The Muscle Factory is a state-of-the-art gym run by a former bodybuilder from the Netherlands. It caters to everything from yoga enthusiasts to heavy lifters and even offers healthy meal delivery.

On the other end of the fitness spectrum is my favorite gym, The Zoo, perched at the top of Soi 5. This sprawling, open-air spot boasts a corrugated tin roof, a black concrete floor, and enough equipment to stock three other gyms. It opens at the crack of dawn and recently added a Muay Thai Boxing academy next door, prompting a name change. But for us old-timers, it will always be The Zoo.

If you prefer a more polished workout environment, there’s a fancy air-conditioned gym available for about $30 a month. For the hardcore fitness crowd, The Zoo offers its no-frills experience at just $20 a month—a bargain for those who love the rugged vibe.

For fitness enthusiasts who prefer walking, hiking, or biking, Pratumnak Hill offers plenty of options. A stroll down to the base of the hill connects you with Dongtan Beach, where a paved footpath winds under coconut and acacia trees for over seven kilometers. The fresh salt air and scenic ocean views make it a perfect way to get your steps in. If you overheat, you can cool down with a fresh coconut water for just $1.20—literally fresh, as beach vendors slice open young coconuts with a cleaver and pop in a straw right in front of you.

For those seeking more of a challenge, there’s the hike up to Wat Phra Yai, also known as the Big Buddha Temple. This scenic path winds through Chaloem Phra Kiat Park, shaded and surrounded by nature, making it a favorite for walkers, joggers, and runners. At the top, you’re rewarded with the stunning sight of a glistening, golden Buddha statue standing 60 feet tall—a breathtaking payoff for your effort.

The Hill has something for every fitness enthusiast. There are tennis courts, outdoor yoga classes, and even a nine-hole golf course located at the New Asia Hotel near the beach on Soi 4. Residents of Pratumnak Hill never need to leave the neighborhood to stay active and fit.

Cost of Living on The Hill

Enjoy a peaceful walk along Dongtan Beach’s shaded path.|©Barton Walters

The southern half of Pratumnak has a much wider variety of housing choices than the northern part. A spacious two-bedroom condo with all the amenities, like a pool, gym, and sea view, costs between $600 and $900, depending on the size. A three-bedroom house with a pool would run from $1,000 to $1,200. You can find a really nice one-bedroom condo for under $500 a month all over this part of The Hill.

Transportation in this neighborhood is cheap because you can walk to most places. Many residents have motorbikes or small scooters. I’ve even seen some using electric golf cart-like vehicles just to get around on The Hill. There are motorbike taxi drivers everywhere, and the fare to reach a place in the neighborhood is about $1.50. A car on Pratumnak Hill would be a luxury, not a necessity.

Food costs could fluctuate depending on how much you like to eat foreign food. The $10 you spend on that delicious pizza could feed you for two days of equally tasty Thai food. The food budget for one person living on The Hill should be between $300 and $400 per month on average.

Entertainment costs may be a little higher, simply because there are so many choices and temptations. There’s a new wine bar with live music called Ramaz, a raucous roadhouse-style place with live bands and open mic nights called Benny’s, and a sophisticated cocktail joint called The Continental. My favorite hangout is The JuJu Music Club, a funky blues bar and recording studio.

Final Thoughts

Because Pratumnak Hill is sandwiched between the neon netherworld of Pattaya and the sleepier beach scene in Jomtien, you would think the personality of the place borrows a bit from each. But make no mistake, The Hill has developed a unique cosmopolitan vibe all its own, and expats are loving it.

They love it for the eclectic group of people and the small-town atmosphere, where you see the characters in your neighborhood at coffee shops, exercising on the beach, or grabbing some fruit at the market. They love it for the variety of food and entertainment. They love it for how embarrassingly affordable it is to live in a place where you can watch the sun sink into the Gulf of Thailand from your living room every night.

I asked my new friend Kraig from San Diego if he thought Pratumnak Hill was the best neighborhood in Thailand. He said, “Well, you get a lot of lifestyle for your money on The Hill. It’s the best place I’ve lived in any country.”

It was easy to see things his way. I’ve lived all over Thailand, and this is the most “plug-and-play” neighborhood for expats I’ve found. If your plan is to move to a palm tree paradise, meet new people, and start a new life … Pratumnak Hill makes it easy.