The Costa Rican Suburb Where I Live Well on $600 Rent

The Costa Rican Suburb Where I Live Well on $600 Rent
Terry enjoys life in San Francisco de Dos Ríos, nestled in Costa Rica’s Central Valley.|©iStock/miroslav_1

Sunny mornings (which are common even in the rainy season) are a perk of living in Costa Rica’s Central Valley for Terry Young, who starts his days catching up on the news while sipping on local 1820 Costa Rican coffee and saying hola to neighbors passing by.

Costa Rica consistently tops IL’s Annual Global Retirement Index, and Terry’s life in the Central Valley is the epitome of why.

"I picked Costa Rica because of its proximity to the USA, which makes it easy to return quickly for a family or medical emergency," says Terry, who visited the country three times before moving and fell in love with Costa Rica’s vibe. The country is a stable democracy with a steady economy, good healthcare, and welcoming locals, known as ticos.

At 71, Terry lives in San Francisco de Dos Rios, a suburb between San José (the capital city) and Cartago (a town founded in 1563 by the conquistador Coronado, who claimed he had "never seen a more beautiful place").

Terry stayed in Airbnbs and searched the Central Valley for some time, finally moving to the area in 2019.

The Central Valley, one of our 2025 Best Regions for Retirement, offers magical landscapes of rolling hills, volcanoes, and pockets of cloud forest. It ticked all the boxes for Terry. "Most expats don’t live in downtown San José; we just take a bus there when we want to take advantage of all its cultural and social offerings." Many choose to settle in areas with vibrant expat communities like Cartago, Escazú, and Santa Ana, known as the "Beverly Hills of Costa Rica."

Terry especially appreciates the weather. "There’s no need for a/c or heat. Every day is like spring in Texas—my home state—with temperatures in the mid-60s to low 80s F, 365 days of the year."

Navigating the Central Valley

An advantage of living in the GAM (the Greater Metropolitan Area) is its reliable public transportation. All major bus routes run through San José. "With permanent residency (through his pensionado status) and being over 65, I ride buses for free."

Terry doesn’t need to own a car. His rental home is only a 15-minute bus ride from downtown San José and 45 minutes from the international airport (SJO). To get there he walks 10 minutes to a bus stop, with service every 10 minutes at peak times. At night, he opts for Uber rides, about $5 from San José.

Terry frequently visits Playa Jacó, an easy day trip, and enjoys overnight stays on other Pacific and Caribbean beaches. Always up for an adventure, he’s visited Playas del Coco near Liberia and Puerto Viejo on the more remote Caribbean Coast (about five hours by bus from San José).

Social Networking in Real Life

When Terry arrived in Costa Rica, he spoke no Spanish, but now he practices daily on the Duolingo app. "I can communicate my needs and build relationships," he says, adding that he uses Google Translator when needed.

Terry loves local culture and attends parades, festivals, and concerts, such as the iconic Tope horse parade in San José on December 26. Skilled tico cowboys practically dance down the street on horseback, celebrating the Day of the Costa Rican Horse Rider.

"Retirees need meaningful activities to stay busy," says Terry, who enjoys sharing reviews of restaurants and tourist hotspots on Google Maps. Another way he connects with people is by hosting guests from abroad. "Some folks stay one night; others may stay with me for weeks."

He also volunteers for Democrats Abroad and participates in the San José chapter of InterNations, an online community for expats. "We have at least one social event per month," says Terry. "It’s a great way to meet people from around the world… and many ticos are also members."

Terry has built close relationships with three tico families, providing monthly support for food and small needs. Over time, he’s become a mentor to the children, attending their graduations, birthdays, and quinceañeras. "I’ve essentially adopted these families and vice versa," he says.

Terry’s monthly retirement pension of $3,000 allows him a comfortable life here. His rent is $600 a month, including water and internet, while additional utilities run about $120. He pays only $80 a month for public health insurance.

Foreign residents in Costa Rica with legal residency status must pay into the Costa Rica Health Care System (the caja) to maintain their residency status. But the Central Valley is home to some of the country’s best hospitals, and expats like Terry claim the quality of care through the Caja system is excellent, though it has limitations. "The Caja is affordable, but wait times can be long if it’s not an emergency." He keeps his US Medicare, which he used when he returned to the States in 2019 for heart bypass surgery.

People rave about their healthier lifestyle in Costa Rica, and Terry is no exception. "Within one year of arriving in CR, I lost 25 pounds without purposely trying. I felt better, too. I attribute that to daily walking and the fresher food options here."

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