I have spent much of my life on the tropical paradise island of Bali. I know it well, so let me introduce you to a special place—an absolute hidden gem that, until recently, was more of a place to stay than a destination to go.
It remains relatively unknown, but a slow yet steady influx of savvy retirees—the ones truly in the know—have been making this enchanting small town their dream retirement home.
This place is Amed.
Amed is not just one town but a string of seven fishing villages, each with calm, inviting, turquoise-colored bays, all overlooked by Mount Agung, Bali’s most sacred and highest volcano.
For my wife and me, Amed is just as alluring below the surface as it is above. Marine life thrives here—brightly colored tropical fish, vibrant coral reefs, migrating turtles, and even the occasional humpback whale gliding past. One of our greatest pleasures is scuba diving the wreck of the USS Liberty, torpedoed and sunk in 1942 during World War II.
And trust me, you are never too old to learn to snorkel or scuba dive.
Amed is located at the easternmost tip of Bali, a three-hour taxi ride from the main international airport, costing only $60 USD. This distance keeps it blissfully removed from the hectic tourist hubs in the south. Unlike many parts of Bali, where foreigners often outnumber locals, Amed remains deeply authentic, with Balinese culture and natural beauty still very much intact.
Amed’s Growing Appeal for Expats
It had been five years since we last visited Amed, and the signs of its transformation into a savvy retirement haven were unmistakable. The once-traditional warungs (Balinese eateries) that lined the main street have now been joined by a host of high-quality international restaurants—Italian, French, Japanese, and Mexican.
Like the rest of Bali, Amed has embraced the coffee culture, with a wave of trendy new coffee shops offering delicious brews at equally tempting prices. Healthy poke bowl eateries have sprung up, along with a brand-new, modern, air-conditioned gym. Meanwhile, Solar Luna Supermarket now provides a wide selection of Western groceries, and its in-house bakery crafts freshly baked pastries and cakes that have quickly become local favorites.
Mr. Ketut, the owner of Bali Luxury Divers, shared his perspective:
“Slowly but surely, more Westerners have chosen Amed as their permanent home. Most are French or American, but we have several other nationalities here as well. It’s not just about scuba diving anymore—there are clubs for tennis, sailing, snorkeling, hiking, and even pool games. There’s now a bule kampung (Western enclave), and these expats have become an integral part of the community, creating a nice vibe. As a result, facilities have improved greatly for everyone.”
Like most expat communities today, Amed’s residents stay connected through the Amed Bali Community Facebook group, which serves as a valuable resource for both new and long-time expats. It covers local events, property rentals, hiking and running clubs, and more. Pickleball is all the rage, with a new club that opened just two months ago. Though still a relatively small expat community, it is incredibly easy to make friends here.
Many retirees we met have also adopted pets, especially dogs, often finding them through the Adopt and Rehome Pets Facebook group. It’s common to see them gathering for group dog hikes along Amed’s scenic trails.
Lifestyle and Atmosphere
In Amed, there are endless ways to fill your days—whether you prefer variety or a familiar routine. Just a few miles inland, you’ll find spectacular hiking trails leading to traditional villages. Feeling energetic? You could climb the sacred Mount Agung, play a game of tennis, go sailing, join a pool competition, or take a day trip to Lembongan Island. A round of golf is just an hour’s drive away. Or, if you prefer a relaxed afternoon, you could simply join friends at one of Amed’s welcoming bars or restaurants, like Kamaze, which offers quality food, cocktails, yoga, free diving lessons, and even an ice bath.
Inevitably, the crystal-clear, calm waters will draw you in. The locals take great pride in keeping the beaches pristine—any floating rubbish is swiftly removed—and plastic straws are nowhere to be found, with eateries offering only reusable metal alternatives.
For us, a perfect day begins with my wife attending one of the many yoga studios, while I head to Lift, the new gym (though occasionally, I’m roped into a yoga class). These venues cost around $8 per session but offer weekly, monthly, and other long-term memberships at more economical rates. Then, it’s brunch—a poke bowl and tropical fruit smoothie—at one of Amed’s many new coffee shops or a restaurant overlooking the bay.
In the afternoon, we hire a colorful fishing catamaran, and the local fisherman sails us over the aquamarine sea to snorkel around the many shipwrecks scattered along the shallow seabed. Alternatively, we might go fishing, and later, a local restaurant will cook our catch for a small fee. Sometimes, we opt to be dropped off at a secluded, wave-lapped beach, where we laze the afternoon away. A three-hour boat rental costs just $30.
After returning to shore, we head to a popular beach bar for a fresh coconut or ice-cold beer and enjoy ridiculously cheap seafood—prawns, calamari, lobster, and mussels—while watching the bright lights of the squid boats on the horizon. To end the evening, we meet friends for live music at one of Amed’s vibrant bars.
At Solar Luna Supermarket, I met Audie Clark from Maryland, who shared his experience:
“My wife and I moved here just eight weeks ago. I’m 70 years old, but I feel like I’m 40. I’ve already lost ten pounds. It’s the lifestyle—we’re always active, the sunny days help, and the food is so healthy. I never knew seafood could be so tasty and so cheap. We couldn’t have written a better script if we tried. We’d wanted to do this for years, but our kids kept telling us we were crazy. Well, they’ve visited us now, and they’re green with envy. With all the political division back in the States, that was the final straw. All we wanted was a slower pace of life, so we made the move—and we’re loving it. I just wish we’d done it ten years ago.”
Cost of Living and Housing
In Amed, it’s possible to enjoy a caviar lifestyle on a burger budget. Most North Americans I meet are astounded by the low cost of living. Here, you can live a lifestyle you couldn’t dream of affording in the West—for less than $2,000 a month.
Western-style accommodation rents for as little as $800 a month. Prices vary widely, with seafront villas reaching three times that amount, but Amed offers rental options for every budget.
It is possible to buy leasehold property in Bali, but the bureaucratic hurdles can be challenging. I’ve considered it in the past but quickly chose to rent—it’s much easier and hassle-free.
The cost of groceries is about half the price of those in the U.S., though certain imported goods can be more expensive. Local markets offer even lower prices for staples like eggs, vegetables, and fruit. It’s still common to meet fishermen early in the morning to buy freshly caught seafood directly from them—our favorite is mahi-mahi.
The cost-of-living difference between North America and Bali is evident across the board:
Laundry costs around $20 per month.
A meal for two at a top restaurant is just $30.
Furnishing a home is both affordable and fun, with high-quality furniture and artwork at unbelievable prices.
If needed, household help or a gardener is available for $4 an hour.
Healthcare
Healthcare in Bali has improved exponentially over the last couple of decades, rivaling or even surpassing facilities in North America. The main expat-friendly hospitals feature state-of-the-art equipment, operate efficiently, and are staffed by English-speaking doctors, many of whom are trained in Australia or New Zealand.
Amed has a well-run medical clinic, the Lipah Medical Centre, which provides quality care for routine health concerns. For specialized treatments, hospitals such as Siloam Hospital, Nusa Dua Hospital, and BIMC have an excellent reputation among expats. I can personally vouch for Siloam Hospital, as my daughter was born there.
Bali has also become a leading destination for medical and dental tourism, further proving the high standard of healthcare available. Pharmacies are abundant, well-stocked, and often do not require a prescription. As an added convenience, many offer home delivery.
Healthcare costs are significantly lower than in North America—often less than half:
A 15-minute consultation with a family doctor costs between $13 and $18. These doctors are known for their personal and friendly approach.
A root canal, which averages $1,300 in the U.S., costs just $230 in Bali.
Waiting times are minimal, and appointments can often be booked via WhatsApp.
Transportation & Infrastructure
Amed is very spread out, so renting or buying a car or scooter is advisable due to the distances that need to be covered. Walking can be cumbersome, as some pavements are in disrepair or nonexistent.
Located three hours from Bali’s main tourist hubs, Amed is far removed from the bright lights—but for expats who settle here, that’s more of a bonus than a drawback. Most retirees choose Amed for its slow-paced, leisurely lifestyle, with a touch of adventure available if desired. As a result, Amed primarily attracts the 55-plus crowd, though a fair number of digital nomads also stay for several months at a time.
Amed is still in the early stages of becoming a top retirement destination, but it is steadily emerging as an ideal place for retirees seeking peace and relaxation. It remains a hidden treasure slowly being revealed, yet its tranquil vibe is likely to endure, thanks to its distance from Bali’s busier tourist hubs.
Transport is cheap and plentiful, but from November to April, monsoon season can bring heavy rains (don’t worry—the rain is warm). However, flooding during this time can lead to frustrating traffic jams.
Final Verdict: Up & Coming
Amed is still in its early stages as a retirement destination, but its allure is undeniable. It offers the perfect blend of adventure, discovery, and relaxation, with fantastic restaurants serving some of the tastiest—and most affordable—seafood on the planet.
If the idea of a full and satisfying life beside a pristine, shimmering sea, enjoying a stress-free, slow-paced existence with endless sunshine, appeals to you—in a place that retains its laid-back fishing village charm, where English is widely spoken, the locals are friendly, and like-minded expats have built a welcoming community—all at unbelievably low prices—then Amed might just be your perfect spot.
