The image of living on a Greek island is a romantic one filled with sunny days, white sand, blue water, and lots of amazing Greek food and wine. But for people living the dream, is it really all that? When summer ends and the crowds grow thin, is Greek island living paradise rediscovered or hell on earth?
To get a clearer sense of what full-time island life is really like, I spoke to two people who made the change from busy urban lives to trying their hand at Greek island living. Neither had lived on an island before. Neither speaks Greek. This is what they told me.
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Year-Round Life on Naxos
Naxos, located in the south Aegean Sea, is the largest island in the Cyclades island grouping, clocking in at 170 square miles. Mykonos and Paros are its closest neighbors. It has a full-time population of just under 21,000 residents. In terms of infrastructure, Naxos offers a national airport and one public hospital (with under 20 beds).
Rachel from the U.K. had spent most of her life in big cities, including Athens and London, but through a fortuitous series of events, she went to Naxos during the winter to cat-sit for a friend. It was supposed to be a 30-day stay, but she met her now-husband and ended up on Naxos full-time. Two and a half years later, she shares what her experience is living full-time on a Greek island.
What do you like the most? I love the island's natural beauty and the sense of peace and freedom I feel looking out onto the Aegean Sea every day. It is magical and really soothes my mind.
What has been the most challenging part of island living? Navigating Greek bureaucracy, including basic services like post office needs, banking, tax and legal administration, and so forth. I found it hard enough in Athens, but here in Naxos there is an island way of doing things that is often not easy to understand and can be quite frustrating when you are trying to deal with administrative tasks that would be so simple back home. There is a slower pace, a lower sense of urgency, and an inefficiency that at moments can feel almost unbearable.
I find the more I can relax into this slower pace, the more I ask lots of questions and the more I accept that things will happen in their own time, the better it goes for me. My husband and I joke that it’s a good day if we get 25% of our jobs completed when we head into town for our administrative tasks.
How have you made friends and built community? I had friends living in Naxos, and through them I met a wonderful and eclectic group of people, made up of Greeks and expats. Some of them live here year-round while others stay mostly through the summer. We had a spring party the first year I arrived, and out of 35 people in attendance, we counted 16 nationalities.
Naxos has a lot going on, from concerts and art to sports. We play padel; there are all the water sports, and biking is popular. It’s easy to get involved in activities where you can meet like-minded people and make friends.
Has it been easy to get your healthcare needs met? Yes, Naxos has the biggest population of the Cyclades, so it has a solid healthcare infrastructure. While I’ve been fortunate to not have had any serious health concerns, the care I’ve received when needed, both from public and private healthcare professionals, has been excellent. There are some types of healthcare and procedures that require treatment in Athens, but Naxos is well connected year-round by ferries and flights if needed. When my husband had a health emergency, he was flown by helicopter to Athens. During that whole ordeal, I was impressed at every turn with the medical care we received.
What has been the biggest positive surprise? Having lived in cities for most of my adult life and being used to the conveniences that come with that, I really wasn’t sure how living on an island would work for me. But I really love it, especially moving through the seasons. The change of seasons feels more pronounced here, not only with the changing weather but also the buildup to the summer when all the hotels and restaurants that closed over the winter open up, and visitors start arriving. And then we watch it all wind down. Everyone who worked so hard over the summer takes a well-earned break while the island quietly ticks on.
Anything else you’d like us to know? I can’t speak for other islands, but Naxos is especially beautiful in the winter. Walking on the beaches in Kastraki and Plaka, with the wind blowing and waves crashing while you are the only one there, is incredible.
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Year-Round Life in Corfu
With a full-time population of over 100,000, Corfu is the administrative capital of the Ionian Islands. It has a landmass of 236 square miles, and due to its proximity to Italy and its fascinating history, it offers a blend of Greek, Venetian, and even British culture. In terms of infrastructure, the island offers an international airport and one public hospital, which can be under-resourced for the population it supports.
Maria, from the U.S., just had her eight-year anniversary living on Corfu. Prior to Corfu, she had lived in London, Athens and Los Angeles. She had always dreamed of living on a Greek island, but a work opportunity is what finally made it a reality for her.
What do you like the most? I love that I have lots of access to stunning nature. Corfu has mountains, sea, and everything in between. The Mon Repos grounds are one of my favorite places to stroll, deep in nature with gorgeous views of the sea from above. I also like Corfu Town, which is really picturesque and magical, especially at night. Living in Corfu can feel like living in a fairy tale setting.
I also appreciate that it is a really safe environment with virtually no violent crime and very little theft. After living in major urban cities most of my adult life, it can feel almost confusing to realize I don’t need to keep my guard up so high.
What has been the most challenging part of island living? The weather has been a challenge, and the winters are hard for me. Corfu is one of the more northern Greek islands, and it can be wet and cold during the winter months. The island can have a desolate feeling as many of the businesses, including restaurants, gyms, shops, and cultural events, close down between November and April.
How have you made friends and built community? Corfu has a large expat community with a particularly high concentration of British expats. The island was a British territory, and it is really well loved by travelers from the U.K. When it comes time to retire, a lot of Brits who are thinking of moving to Greece naturally gravitate toward Corfu.
In terms of meeting people, there are a lot of Facebook groups for hiking groups, animal rescue work and many other ways to come together. Even simple interactions can open doors. I became friends with my realtor, and she introduced me to her whole network of expat friends.
Has it been easy to get your healthcare needs met? So far, yes, but getting my needs met has included trips to Athens. There is only one public hospital in Corfu, and most of the expats opt for private insurance and go to private hospitals or clinics. The good news is that the healthcare system is relatively well-developed in Corfu, and there are clinics for lots of specializations. I did need emergency gallbladder surgery, and for that, I needed to travel to Athens. But it was handled very professionally, and I had a very positive experience. I always have in mind that I might need to travel to Athens, Thessaloniki, or Ioannina for care, so I factor that in as a possibility.
What has been the biggest positive surprise? Corfu is a university island and also considered a music hub, so there are young people and music everywhere.
Anything else you’d like us to know? Having the international airport has made life much easier, as there are more flight connections available. This is a real benefit for anyone choosing Corfu. There are also a few negatives. Surprisingly, we can have challenges like electricity and water cuts due to infrastructure issues.
The Reality of Island Life
Rachel and Maria chose two different islands and found two different rhythms of life. Both women are happy with their choices, but they have had to make some adjustments.
Naxos offers a diverse expat community, dramatic natural beauty and a genuine slow season, paired with bureaucracy that runs on its own clock. Corfu offers international flight connections, a built-in British expat network and more variety in specialist healthcare, paired with harsh winters, seasonal shutdowns and utility interruptions.
Neither island promises an easy healthcare backup. Both women have a plan for when local care isn’t enough, whether that’s an emergency helicopter to Athens or a scheduled flight to Thessaloniki.
Curious about other islands that are attractive for year-round living? Read about these islands that stay open long after the summer ends.
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