Rayong, Thailand

Rayong Province on Thailand’s Eastern Seaboard is only an hour from where I live, so when people ask what it’s like to live there, I’ve always had an answer.

The only problem? I had no idea what I was talking about.

As a proud citizen and staunch advocate of the Pattaya-Jomtien Metroplex in Chonburi Province, I’ve thrown plenty of shade at the province next door. “How much nicer could the beaches be?” I’d scoff. “How much cheaper is it, really? What kind of people live there? Boring… sleepy… nobody speaks English…” You get the idea.

But after actually spending ten days in Rayong Province last month, I now feel like a braying jackass.

Fortunately, I don’t mind being wrong when the truth is this rewarding.

Scouting Rayong: A Road Trip with Big Expectations

Casuarina-lined Hat Napa Tharaphiron beach near Ban Chang offers peace and quirky glamping stays.|©Bart Walters

I climbed in the car with my friend Kim Waddoup, an Englishman and long-time expat who lives in an adjacent neighborhood to me in Jomtien Beach. We both wanted to explore Rayong Province for different reasons, so we teamed up and hit the road.

Kim has been living in a small studio with his Thai partner for the past five years. They really loved the sea view and cosmopolitan lifestyle on Pratumnak Hill near Pattaya, but are looking for a place to spread out, possibly with a garden and a dog. Kim’s on a fixed income and hoping to get more bang for his rental budget’s bucks, and Rayong is rumored to be a little more wallet-friendly than the Pattaya corridor.

I envisioned hopping in front of the infrastructure wave swelling up on the Eastern Seaboard, as Rayong Province is poised to erupt with development and escalating property value. With the high-speed train project connecting Bangkok to the Aerotropolis at U-Tapao International Airport in the near future, I wanted to identify potential hotspots for capital appreciation in the property market and rental income.

So, with Tom Petty’s “Running Down a Dream” blasting from the rear speakers, we took our hopes and dreams and headed for Rayong.

Ban Chang: Affordable Living and a Strong Expat Community

VFW Post 12146 hosts regular golf tournaments in Ban Chang for vets and locals.|©Bart Walters

We quickly learned that the area we’d been calling “Rayong” covers a lot more ground than expected—it’s actually a series of connected villages and beach towns spread out along the coast of the entire province. Rayong City, the deep-sea port, and the massive industrial estate at Map Ta Phut are located near the center. To drive from the westernmost community of Ban Chang near the airport to the easternmost beach town of Mae Pim takes over an hour.

The first community we found with a sizable expat population is Ban Chang, in the province’s southwest corner near U-Tapao International Airport. We met with a group of American expatriates just as they were finishing up their weekly meeting at VFW Post 12146 (Veterans of Foreign Wars). This post organizes a huge golf tournament each year to raise funds for local children’s charities. My contact there is Quartermaster Lou Holub, a retired Navy veteran, who was checking all the details and assigning tasks to other members for the big tournament in March.

The VFW is heavily involved in the surrounding community and supports veterans, expats, and locals in myriad ways. Seeing the energy and commitment these VFW members bring to the community made me proud to be an American—and a veteran.

Lou and the other members described Ban Chang as a laid-back suburban village with a tight-knit community. Most of them are married to Thai partners and have lived in and around Ban Chang for over ten years. They play golf at one of a dozen or so courses in the area, soak up the fresh air and sunshine on spectacular beaches, and gather with fellow expats at a charming cluster of pubs and sports bars in the center of town.

According to several of the VFW guys, Ban Chang is significantly cheaper than the big city of Pattaya. My friend Kim’s face lit up when he heard them talk about renting a three-bedroom house in a gated community for under $500 per month. Since Ban Chang isn’t primarily a tourist town, it has fewer distractions and expensive shopping or dining options, making the overall lifestyle easier on the budget.

I was happy to hear how upbeat they were about the coming infrastructure projects. Even though the high-speed train connecting U-Tapao Airport to Bangkok’s two international airports has been delayed, everyone expects it to be completed and operational in the next few years. They shared the same optimism about the airport’s extensive expansion into Southeast Asia’s premier logistical hub. As with most ambitious infrastructure projects, timing is hard to pin down, but both initiatives are expected to make a big impact on the area.

We visited Hat Napa Tharaphiron, a beach near U-Tapao Airport, and were stunned by how nice it was. It isn’t even rated as one of the top beaches in the area, but it was clean and natural, with giant Casuarina trees for shade and no umbrellas or beach vendors. It was the first time I’ve seen people camping out overnight on a beach.

A unique way to enjoy Ban Chang’s coast: glamping with a view.|©Bart Walters

You can rent several unconventional spots and have a “glamping” experience. I saw some old Thai-style bungalows and an Airstream trailer converted into a beach house. You can even rent a room in an old Douglas DC-3 airplane that’s been turned into a hotel. This beach in Ban Chang is a unique and delightfully kooky place. I could easily see myself spending a three-day weekend there, camping out under the trees.

Housing options are plentiful in Ban Chang. Condos, townhouses, and houses of all descriptions are available for sale and rent. Most of the Americans we met live in family-style homes in one of the many gated communities. Ban Chang appears to offer a traditional and comfortable lifestyle that North Americans could easily adapt to.

Mae Ramphueng: Underrated Beach Vibes and Real Estate Surprises

$200K Bali-style home with pool, steps from the beach.|©Bart Walters

We set our sights on finding the best beaches in the province and hoped to locate some affordable properties near the water. The village of Mae Ramphueng, a few miles east of Ban Chang, boasts the longest beach on this coast—more than eight miles of soft sand, towering shade trees, and surprisingly robust surf.

Most tourists who visit Mae Ramphueng are Thai families looking to spread a few bamboo mats, relax in the shade, and enjoy some great seafood. On weekends, food carts line the road that runs along the coast, allowing visitors to grab fresh grilled treats and savor them with their toes in the sand. It seems like a kinder, gentler way to enjoy the beach than what I typically see up the road in Pattaya.

We met with Fredrik from Home Solution Services, a Swede who has lived in Thailand for over 20 years. He shared that most of the expatriates in this beach community are Scandinavians who own condominiums and second homes here. The buildings along Beach Road are a mix—many over 20 years old, with some newer developments sprinkled in.

Fredrik showed us a unit for sale in one of the older buildings directly across from the beach. At first, we were hesitant. The exterior was clearly aging. But once inside, we found a beautifully renovated one-bedroom corner condo. It featured stylish new furniture, ample built-in storage, and a fully equipped kitchen. The asking price? Just over $76,000. Putting on my investor hat, I estimated this unit could easily rent for $600 per month, giving a net return of nearly 9% annually. Not only could I see myself living in that condo—it was a slam dunk as an investment.

We also toured a house for sale in a quiet neighborhood just ten minutes from the beach. Some suburban neighborhoods in Thailand are gated communities with cookie-cutter homes, but others are more diverse. The house we saw was in the latter category—a typical expat area where owners buy a plot of land and build to their own specifications.

Renovated condos offer ocean views and solid rental returns starting under $80,000.|©Bart Walters

Kim and I both noticed how clean and orderly the neighborhood was, with residents clearly taking pride in their homes. The house we toured belongs to a retired Swiss architect and his Thai wife. It’s a two-bedroom Bali-style villa with a large swimming pool, generous outdoor living areas, covered parking for two cars, and a lush garden. As you’d expect from a Swiss architect, every detail was carefully considered: inverter air conditioners, double-glazed PVC doors and windows, a solar-powered central water heater, and a saltwater chlorination system for the pool. In a word, the place was immaculate. The fully furnished home was listed at $200,000. Renting a house like this would typically run $1,000 to $1,200 per month.

We were a little stunned by the value available for properties close to the beach. Kim was already picturing a house with a pool and a dog, with his girlfriend tending a backyard garden. I imagined buying up condos in need of renovation, flipping them, or renting them out for double-digit annual returns.

The unspoiled beaches, combined with the comfortable, suburban lifestyle in Mae Ramphueng, make it another place where I could see it being very easy to settle in.

Mae Phim: Clean Beaches, Peaceful Living, and Hidden Potential

Bart enjoying the laid-back vibe of Mae Phim.|©Bart Walters

Just as I was about to proclaim “paradise found” and dig deeper into the Mae Ramphueng community, we continued our search down the coast and discovered Laem Mae Phim, in the eastern corner of the province.

As we made the sweeping left curve along the coast, I got my first glimpse of the beach and felt like I was seeing a long-lost friend. It’s one of those places that feels instantly familiar, as if you’ve been there before. Or maybe I was having a premonition that it’s in my future. Either way, I immediately felt a connection.

Laem Mae Phim (Cape of Mae Phim) features a four-mile stretch of soft sand, shaded by massive trees leaning into the offshore breeze. It’s easily the cleanest beach I’ve seen on this coast, with fine white sand that reminds me of the beaches from my hometown on the east coast of Florida.

The main beach at Mae Phim faces south into water that feels much more like the open ocean than a bay. Waves break long down the shoreline, the beach expands and contracts with the tides, and there’s an eternal rhythm to the place that sets your internal clock in sync with the sea.

This beach enjoys a brilliant sunrise on the east end—sand-colored beach dogs waking up and playing in the surf, long-legged seabirds plucking tiny crabs and fish from the tidepools. The sunset on the west end looks like a fiery neon sign, as if advertising Pattaya’s nightlife 90 minutes away.

Mae Phim’s quiet, four-mile beach is clean, scenic, and a favorite of locals and low-key expats.|©Bart Walters

The waterfront features a wide, paved footpath lined with towering Casuarina trees. This shaded green corridor is elevated—about ten steps above the beach and five below Beach Road. Large, open-air shelters called salas are spaced regularly along the way, creating a series of beachside mini-parks where families can relax, take in the view, and easily access the sand.

During the week, the beach is mostly quiet. In the mornings, joggers, walkers, and cyclists take in the sea air and get their steps in. On weekends, Thai families make the two-hour trip from Bangkok to gorge on seafood, dig their toes into the sand, and wear their children out playing in the surf.

Mae Phim is the first beach I’ve visited in Thailand where Thai families genuinely come to enjoy themselves. Nobody wants to bring their kids to a beach full of fat foreigners sizzling in the sun—and Mae Phim is the opposite of that.

Grandma is sitting under an umbrella, sipping coconut water through a straw. The kids and cousins are squealing as a jet ski pulls their banana boat up and down the shore. Teenagers are burying each other in the sand and taking selfies. If you want to learn about Thai family life, come to Mae Phim Beach on a weekend.

Some visitors stay in cozy beachfront resorts; others book into upscale hotels like the Mercure Lomtalay Villas. Several low- and mid-rise condos line Beach Road and stretch inland, and there are plenty of Airbnb studios and one-bedroom apartments available.

Inside the Market: What You Can Buy in Mae Phim

Mae Phim offers affordable beachfront living and great real estate value.|©Bart Walters

My friend Kim had a connection in Mae Phim, and before long, we were enjoying a frosty beverage and learning all about the neighborhood from Pasi Marjamaki, the owner of 999 Real Estate. Pasi is originally from Finland and has lived in Mae Phim for over 16 years.

He explained that this area has developed slowly and independently from the Central Business District in Rayong City and the massive industrial estates surrounding the deep-sea port at Map Ta Phut. He’s been involved in the development of nearly every major project in Mae Phim and is currently the sales force behind several new villa estates.

“In the beginning, nearly all of my sales were to Northern Europeans from Norway, Finland, Sweden, and Denmark,” Pasi told us. “In recent years, it’s been a real mixture of people from all over—including Canadians and Americans.” He estimates that no more than 400 to 500 permanent expat residents live in Mae Phim. “We get a lot of snowbirds here,” he said.

We jumped in the car with Pasi and went on a two-day property tour that was serious sensory overload. The variety, quality, and affordability of the houses and condos we saw were astounding.

Our first stop was Escape 2 Condo in Ao Khai, a small beach just east of Mae Phim. It’s a sleek, modern six-floor low-rise with a private beach and resort-style pool area. “This is the best condo in Mae Phim—and the highest price,” Pasi said. The two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit we toured offered 1,100 square feet of chic, Miami-style décor and an incredible view over the private beach. The price? About $195,000.

We also saw several similar buildings farther inland, all with stunning sea views and more affordable price tags. Quite a few larger three-bedroom condos, priced between $120,000 and $185,000, were less than ten minutes from the beach.

My favorite was in an older building perched on a rocky hilltop, reached by a spooky winding road. Despite its 12-year age, the design seemed ahead of its time. Buyers were clearly snapping up large units and renovating them. We toured a huge two-bedroom, two-bathroom unit with a giant balcony and a sweeping view of the valley and the sea.

Pasi explained that the Thai family who developed the building had run it themselves for years but recently handed over control to a homeowners’ committee, which brought in a professional management company. My investor senses were tingling. The price for that unit? Under $120,000—and it didn’t need any renovation. There’s a lot of upside here.

When we switched gears to houses, we were equally impressed by the variety and affordability of single-family homes. My favorite was in a gated village called Bali Residence, just ten minutes from Mae Phim Beach. The self-contained community features two-, three-, and four-bedroom Bali-style villas with lush tropical landscaping, a common pool, and a recreation area. It’s so clean, it looks like a movie set. I could easily see myself living in one of the two-bedroom units, with a dog and a gas grill, harvesting green mangoes from the garden. And with a price under $100,000… maybe I could even afford two dogs!

Pasi also showed us some high-end luxury pool villas—including his own sprawling home on nearly an acre of land. For between $200,000 and $300,000, there’s a surprisingly large inventory of gorgeous family homes in Mae Phim.

The housing projects are tucked away among rubber tree plantations, mango orchards, and forested hills, giving the area a semi-rural feel. But you’re never more than ten minutes from the beach.

A Hidden Gem That Defied Expectations

After several days of touring properties, strolling the beaches, and consuming copious amounts of seafood, Kim and I both agreed—Mae Phim is one of those places where you could genuinely be “living the dream.”

On the drive back to Pattaya, we chatted non-stop about what it would be like to live in Rayong Province. Kim was drawn to the affordable, laid-back lifestyle and the sense of community among the friendly expats. He was especially impressed by the VFW guys and the work they’re doing in Ban Chang.

I was struck by the property value and the area’s raw natural beauty. As an unrepentant beach snob, I have to admit—Mae Phim now ranks among my top three beaches of all time. I could see myself walking that stretch of sand every single day.

I feel a little sheepish for badmouthing my neighboring province in the past, but I’m glad I went and saw it for myself. And honestly? I’m thrilled to have been wrong about Rayong.

Verdict: Ready Now

From the VFW boys in Ban Chang to the beautiful beach in Mae Phim, every place I visited in this province felt incredibly livable. There’s a wide range of affordable housing options and an abundance of delicious food. Rayong offers hospitals, schools, shopping, and all the amenities any Westerner might need. You can enjoy a serene, laid-back lifestyle close to nature, while still being just a short drive from two bustling cities.

The next five years will be crucial for development, as property prices are expected to soar once the high-speed train reduces travel time from Bangkok to just 45 minutes and Utapao Airport expands with an additional runway.

The lifestyle and opportunities in Rayong Province were hiding in plain sight. I’ve lived on this coast since 2009, and I don’t know why I never dug my toes into the Rayong sand before.