As someone who’s called Waterford home for more than twenty years, I can tell you—there’s nowhere quite like it. Tucked along Ireland’s southeastern coast, Waterford is the country’s oldest city, where Viking history rubs shoulders with modern charm. For U.S. travelers and retirees craving a picturesque European spot that feels authentic yet affordable, Waterford is a true hidden gem. Its cobbled streets, lively local culture, and unhurried pace draw more visitors each year, and some end up staying for good.
Whether you’re dreaming of a short stay or a permanent move, Waterford strikes an appealing balance: centuries of history and heritage paired with creature comforts, tranquil countryside alongside a vibrant arts scene. And as part of Ireland’s “sunny southeast,” Waterford soaks up more sunshine than most corners of the Emerald Isle.
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The Charm of Waterford

Founded by the Vikings in 914 A.D., Waterford wears its history proudly. The city’s compact center is a delightful mix of medieval architecture, Georgian buildings, and cozy cafés. The pedestrian-friendly streets invite wandering, and with the River Suir running through its heart, there’s always a scenic view nearby.
One of the best-known exports from this region is Waterford Crystal, the fine glassware that has adorned homes and palaces around the world. The House of Waterford Crystal is a must-see attraction, offering factory tours and stunning displays of craftsmanship.
The people here are warm, welcoming, and quick with a story. While Gaelic is still spoken in some pockets of Ireland, English is the everyday language in Waterford, making integration for U.S. visitors and expats relatively seamless.
Cost of Living in Waterford
Compared to major U.S. cities, Waterford offers a notably lower cost of living. Monthly rent for a one-bedroom apartment in the city center typically ranges from €1,000 to €1,300 ($1,090 to $1,420), while outside the center, you might find something suitable for as low as €850 ($925). Renting a three-bedroom house in or near the city typically costs between €1,400 and €1,800 ($1,530 to $1,970) per month, depending on the location and condition.
Groceries and dining out are also affordable. A nice three-course meal for two at a mid-range restaurant costs around €60 ($65). Fresh local produce, dairy, and fish from the region mean even home cooking feels gourmet.
Healthcare in Ireland is high quality and accessible, with both public and private options. Expats can qualify for public healthcare under certain conditions or opt for private insurance, which is still affordable compared to U.S. premiums.
Here’s a quick breakdown of typical monthly costs in Waterford:
Item | Estimated Monthly Cost (EUR) | Estimated Monthly Cost (USD) |
One-bedroom apartment (city) | €1,150 | $1,255 |
One-bedroom apartment (suburb) | €900 | $985 |
Three-bedroom house (city/suburb) | €1,600 | $1,745 |
Utilities (electric, gas, water) | €160 | $175 |
Internet | €50 | $55 |
Public transport (monthly pass) | €65 | $70 |
Dining out (meal for two) | €60 | $65 |
Pint of beer | €5.50 | $6 |
Groceries (monthly) | €300 | $350 |
Real Estate in Waterford
Buying property in Waterford is relatively straightforward for U.S. citizens, as there are no restrictions on foreign ownership. You’ll find charming cottages, modern apartments, and even historic homes at prices that would be considered bargains in most American markets.
As of mid-2025, a three-bedroom home in the city can be found for around €250,000 to €350,000 ($275,000 to $385,000), depending on location and condition. If you’re after a more rural experience, you can find even more affordable properties in the surrounding countryside.
The Expat Community
While Waterford doesn’t have as large an expat population as cities like Dublin or Galway, there’s a steadily growing community of internationals, including Americans. Facebook groups, expat meetups, and local cultural events offer plenty of opportunities to connect.
Irish people are famously friendly and curious, making it easy to make local friends. Many expats report feeling welcomed and embraced by their new neighbors, especially if they make the effort to integrate and participate in local life.
Things to Do in Waterford
From Viking heritage to modern music festivals, there is always something happening in Waterford. History buffs can delve into the city's rich history at the Waterford Treasures Museums, situated in the heart of the city’s Viking Triangle—a compact, historic quarter where narrow streets, medieval walls, and centuries-old buildings tell the story of Ireland’s oldest city. Here you’ll find the Medieval Museum, Bishop's Palace, and Reginald's Tower, Ireland's oldest civic building.

One of Waterford’s crown jewels is the Waterford Greenway, a 46-kilometer off-road cycling and walking trail that stretches all the way to Dungarvan, a beautiful harbour town known for its food scene, sea views, and relaxed coastal charm. The route takes you through scenic countryside, across viaducts, through old railway tunnels, and past ancient ruins, including a former Viking settlement. It’s the perfect way to soak up Ireland’s natural beauty at your own pace, whether you’re cycling, walking, or stopping off for coffee in one of the charming villages along the way.
Ballybricken represents a slice of old Waterford. Once the bustling site of the city’s cattle market, it still keeps its tight-knit, working-class character. Growing up, Ballybricken was one of those places where you could grab a bag of chips, catch a match, and always bump into someone you knew. Today, it’s dotted with independent shops and traditional pubs, and it remains a local hub, great for catching a GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) game or sharing a pint with a crowd who’ll treat you like one of their own.
If you’re visiting during the summer or over Christmas, be sure to check out Waterford’s fantastic street festivals:
Spraoi Festival takes over the city every August Bank Holiday weekend, transforming the streets into a hub of live music, colorful costumes, street theatre, and parades. It's one of Ireland’s best-known arts festivals, attracting performers and visitors from all over the world.

In winter, Winterval, held from late November through December, turns Waterford into a Christmas wonderland with markets, light shows, a vintage Ferris wheel, ice skating, and Santa’s village. It's widely considered Ireland’s premier Christmas festival, bringing a magical feel to the city center.
The Waterford Harvest Festival, held annually in September, is a celebration of local food, farming, and culture. The city fills with market stalls, cooking demonstrations, craft beer tastings, and family-friendly events that showcase the very best of the region’s produce.

And of course, Waterford is just a short drive from some of Ireland's most stunning coastline. Tramore Beach, only 15 minutes away, is a favorite for surfers, swimmers, and those looking to enjoy a seaside walk or a serving of fish and chips by the sea.

Getting There and Around
Waterford is served by its own regional airport with flights to and from the U.K., and it’s just a two-hour drive or train ride from Dublin. The city has a reliable bus service and is very walkable. If you plan to explore the surrounding countryside, renting or owning a car is a good idea.
International travelers usually arrive via Dublin Airport, which has regular bus and train connections to Waterford. Once you’re in the city, you’ll find that most necessities are within walking distance.
Safety and Healthcare
Ireland, in general, is considered a very safe country, and Waterford is no exception. Violent crime is rare, and most issues are minor, such as petty theft. That said, like in any city, it’s wise to stay aware of your surroundings, especially at night.
Waterford University Hospital is the primary medical facility in the region, offering a full range of services. Private clinics and GPs are also widely available. Many expats opt for a mix of public and private care to ensure quicker appointments and broader coverage.
Weather in Waterford
Waterford enjoys a temperate maritime climate. Winters are mild, with temperatures rarely dropping below freezing, and summers are pleasantly warm, usually ranging from 60 to 70°F. Rain is frequent but often light, and the city gets more sunshine than the Irish average—a definite bonus.
The best months to visit are May through September, when outdoor activities, festivals, and cultural events are in full swing. Spring and autumn are quieter but still offer plenty of charm.
Residency and Visa Options
U.S. citizens can enter Ireland without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. If you’re considering a longer stay or a permanent move, you’ll need to look into Ireland’s long-stay visa options. Retirees typically apply for a “Stamp 0” visa, which requires proof of sufficient income and private health insurance.
Ireland has no formal retirement visa, but many Americans successfully settle here with proper planning. Consulting an immigration advisor is highly recommended if you plan to make the move.
Final Thoughts
Waterford combines the charm of a small European city with the conveniences and culture that make everyday life enjoyable. With its lower cost of living, welcoming community, rich history, and scenic beauty, it’s no wonder more Americans are discovering it.
And as someone who has lived here for a long time, I can say there’s a depth to this city you only truly feel when you’ve lived it. Whether you come for a season or stay for a lifetime, Waterford offers a taste of authentic Ireland with all the ingredients for a happy, fulfilling life.
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The 10 Best Pubs and Bars in Waterford City
Waterford’s pub scene is as rich and storied as the city itself. As Ireland’s oldest city, Waterford has long been known for its vibrant nightlife, friendly locals, and unforgettable live music. From traditional pubs with roaring fires and impromptu trad sessions to modern bars serving craft cocktails and DJs, the city has something for every taste. Whether you’re just visiting or have lived here your whole life, these ten pubs capture the heart and soul of Waterford’s legendary hospitality.
10. The Gingerman
Nestled on Arundel Lane just off Broad Street, The Gingerman is a boutique-style pub with hearty portions and an old-world charm. Think cozy open fireplaces, friendly staff, and a well-loved atmosphere—perfect for a relaxed afternoon pint or a casual evening meal.
Atmosphere: Quaint and unhurried, a favorite locals’ haunt for midday drinks.
Food & Drink: Generous pub fare (burgers, salads, po’ boys), reasonable pricing.
Why Go: It’s authentic, quiet, and welcoming—a real Irish pub tucked in historic Waterford.
9. The Tap Room
The Tap Room, located near Mayor’s Walk in Waterford, offers a warm, relaxed atmosphere perfect for enjoying a friendly pint. It’s a favorite local spot known for its welcoming vibe and casual charm.Ask ChatGPT
Atmosphere: Friendly and laid-back, with an easygoing crowd that leans toward beer lovers and neighborhood regulars.
Food & Drink: Good pints on offer, known for good Guinness.
Why Go: A rising favorite for those seeking something a little more modern—great pints, no pressure, and always good company.
8. The Exchange
Located in the Ballybricken area, The Exchange champions affordable pints (from around €4.50), regular live music, and sports showings.
Atmosphere: A welcoming mix of locals and visitors, especially after 7 p.m. when live music kicks off.
Food & Drink: Budget-friendly beers.
Why Go: One of the best-value pubs in town, with an authentic Ballybricken vibe and wallet-friendly prices.
7. Tom Maher’s
A Waterford institution since 1886, Tom Maher’s (or Thomas Maher’s) offers tradition with purpose.
Atmosphere: Classic long bar, historic woodwork, no piped music—just conversation.
Food & Drink: Famous Whiskey Mac, range of Irish whiskeys, and traditional beers.
Why Go: Steeped in history, its male-only bar, established in 1999, reflects a storied past. Now enduring charm under new stewardship.
6. Geoff’s Café Bar
A venerable favorite, Geoff’s began as a grocery bar in 1906 and maintains that unique character.
Atmosphere: Cavernous yet homey; wood-paneled warmth with hidden nooks.
Food & Drink: Tasty light meals, good pours, and reliable service.
Why Go: More than a pub, it’s a piece of Waterford history, an ideal entry point for thoughtful chats and good eats.
5. Tully’s Bar
A local gem on O’Connell Street, Tully’s offers traditional Irish hospitality with a modern twist.
Atmosphere: Welcoming, lively, with both locals and tourists mingling. Outdoor seating adds to the charm.
Food & Drink: Solid craft beers, spicy margaritas and a food truck pairing on the street outside.
Why Go: Great for a casual or post-activity drink, often with live tunes or open mic nights.
4. Jordan’s American Bar
Dating back to 1948, Jordan’s retains an old-world, traditional pub feel, known for its charisma and charm.
Atmosphere: Cosy fireside setting; live music nights (blues, traditional tunes); darts nights; community events.
Food & Drink: Great stout (arguably the best in town), Taytos, bacon fries.
Why Go: A living snapshot of classic Irish pub culture, intimate, character-filled, and family-run.
3. Uisce Beatha
Literally “Water of Life,” Uisce Beatha on the quay is a vibrant live-music hub.
Atmosphere: Bohemian edge with nightly jams, pool tables, craft beers, and a friendly buzz.
Food & Drink: Craft beer selection and goof Guinness.
Why Go: If you want live Irish music in a spirited artsy setting, this is your place—authentic, electric, and heartfelt.
2. Henry Downes
A local favorite near the quays, Henry Downes & Co. is a hidden gem with a warm vibe.
Atmosphere: Intimate, welcoming, known for attentive service and cozy style.
Food & Drink: Solid Guinness and German beers.
Why Go: Quiet enough for a thoughtful drink, but lively when mood strikes, the kind of place locals gush over.
1. J.K. Walsh’s
Topping the list is J.K. Walsh’s, one of Waterford’s most iconic pubs, part of the city’s social heartbeat, and a favorite among locals and visitors alike.
Atmosphere: Traditional yet warm, central to Waterford's pub culture with a timeless, no-frills charm.
Food & Drink: Classic Irish pours and an ever-reliable Guinness.
Why Go: Widely regarded as serving the best pint of Guinness in Waterford, and arguably one of the best in the entire country. It’s the kind of place where you lose track of time over one perfect pint after another.
Bonus: A must-stop for anyone seeking the “true” Irish pub experience, there’s no gimmick, just perfect pints and friendly conversation.
Rank | Pub Name | Location | Vibe | Highlights |
10 | The Gingerman | Historic Broad St | Quiet, cozy | Good food |
9 | The Tap Room | Mayor’s Walk | Casual, local | Good pints |
8 | The Exchange | Ballybricken | Budget, lively | €4.50 pints, music |
7 | Tom Maher’s | O’Connell St | Classic, conversation | Whiskey Mac, historic |
6 | Geoff’s Café Bar | Apple Market | Heritage-rich, comfy | Pub meals, hidden nooks |
5 | Tully’s Bar | O’Connell St | Lively, local-friendly | Craft beers, live music |
4 | Jordan’s American | Parade Quay | Traditional, cosy | Blues nights, darts |
3 | Uisce Beatha | Merchants Quay | Bohemian, musical | 7-night gigs, pool table |
2 | Henry Downes | Quaint city spot | Intimate, well-poured | Historic and relaxed atmosphere |
1 | J.K. Walsh’s | Central Waterford | Iconic, authentic | Local must-see and great pints |
Your chance to retire overseas now
Your chance to retire overseas now
Learn more about Ireland and other destinations by signing up to our daily IL Postcards e-letter and we'll immediately send you a free report: 20 Countries Compared, Contrasted, Ranked, and Rated.
You don’t have to be rich to enjoy a pampered retirement, you just need to know where to go.
With our 34th Annual Global Retirement Index, our experts hand you a detailed roadmap. Details and a Special Offer Here!

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