Ioannina, Greece

Driving into Ioannina, I was immediately struck by its balance of natural beauty, deep history, and youthful energy. Cradled between the Pindus Mountains and the calm waters of Lake Pamvotis, the city carries the elegance of its Ottoman and Byzantine past while pulsing with the vitality of a university town. Even under the misty, overcast spring sky, the lake shimmered with quiet beauty. Ioannina exudes a kind of quiet confidence—charming, but not trying too hard.

My first walk was along the lakefront promenade, just after arriving. It was a cool, cloudy spring afternoon. Locals were out walking dogs, sipping coffee on benches, or strolling hand-in-hand with their children. I slowed to a natural pace, wrapped in the soft mountain light and the gentle hush that seemed to float off the water. The snow-capped peaks in the distance mirrored themselves in the lake’s surface, and a heron waded calmly near the reeds. I have always felt that there is something healing about walking beside water, and Ioannina offers it without crowds, without flash, just the serenity of a place that has been quietly itself for centuries.

The next day, I wandered deeper into the urban heart of the city. The contrast was striking. Narrow cobblestone streets opened onto lively squares filled with students, artists, and old men playing backgammon at sidewalk cafés. Music from a nearby bar drifted through the air, mixing with the smell of grilled souvlaki and espresso. I stumbled upon a silver workshop tucked into a quiet alley—Ioannina is famous for its silversmithing—and stood mesmerized as a craftsman shaped fine filigree in the rear of the shop. The city felt alive with vibrant energy from the university students and young families, yet carried a peaceful hum of centuries of history.

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Lifestyle

Ioannina’s laid-back rhythm and café culture suit both students and retirees.|©iStock/Gatsi

Ioannina is wonderfully walkable, and much of daily life unfolds on foot or by bike. The rhythm here is grounded: cafés open late but stay full well into the night, especially with the university crowd. The lake promenade is a favorite gathering place for all ages, offering a simple daily ritual of movement, nature, and community.

Healthcare access is excellent. The public University Hospital is highly regarded, and a few expats I spoke to praised the care they’d received, especially in cardiology and orthopedics. There are also private options available, although fewer English-speaking professionals are available than in larger cities. Still, the proximity of high-quality medical services is reassuring, particularly for retirees or those with ongoing health needs.

Fast, reliable internet is available throughout the city. Most homes can access high-speed fiber connections for around €30 per month—good news for remote workers. Mobile coverage is consistent, and local providers offer competitive packages.

Public transportation includes city buses and a reliable intercity system, but having a car adds freedom, especially if you plan to explore the surrounding mountains or coastal getaways.

Community and Integration

The expat presence in Ioannina is small, but that’s part of its appeal. You won’t find large meetups or English-speaking enclaves here. What you will find is a warm, down-to-earth local culture—one that welcomes curiosity and rewards effort.

English is spoken in tourist-facing settings, but many daily interactions will require some Greek. I had a few moments in shops or bakeries where my basic phrases were met with kind smiles and patient replies. If you’re the kind of expat who seeks immersion rather than insulation, this place offers something real and deeply enriching.

Accessibility and Nature

Vikos Gorge is one of the world’s deepest canyons, with dramatic cliffs and peaceful trails.|©iStock/MNStudio

One of Ioannina’s biggest draws is its proximity to nature. Just beyond the city lies the stunning Zagori region, with its stone bridges, alpine trails, and the dramatic Vikos Gorge—one of the deepest in the world. Whether you’re a casual walker or a serious hiker, the area is a dream.

And while Ioannina isn’t coastal, it’s a short drive to Parga or Preveza, seaside towns with Ionian charm and turquoise waters. The drives themselves, winding through mountain passes and olive groves, are worth the trip alone.

One afternoon, I hopped on the small boat to Ioannina Island, a peaceful, car-free retreat with centuries-old monasteries and tree-covered walking paths. I wandered the narrow trails, listened to the echo of bells, and ate grilled trout at a taverna beside the water. It felt like stepping back in time.

Challenges

No place is perfect. Ioannina’s winters can be cold, and the humidity from the lake means damp mornings and misty skies. If you’re craving the dry heat of the Cyclades, this may not be your climate.

The smaller expat community also means fewer resources for English speakers—fewer doctors, lawyers, or real estate agents fluent in your language. But for many, that’s part of the city’s charm: a place that asks you to show up fully, to participate, to adapt.

Cost of Living

Rural landscape near Ioannina with rolling fields and mountain views.

Ioannina offers a high quality of life without a high price tag. Dining out is affordable: a delicious souvlaki or spanakopita from a bakery costs about $5 to $6, while a sit-down meal at a mid-range taverna runs between $13 to $20. Lakeside restaurants offer fresh seafood with sweeping views for a fraction of what you’d pay on the islands.

Grocery prices are on par with the national average. I enjoyed browsing the weekly farmers’ market on Mondays—baskets of local apples, fresh mountain herbs, handmade cheeses, and village honey. Utilities typically cost between $110 and $210 per month, but winter heating (usually oil or electric) can push bills higher in colder months, especially since Greek builders rarely insulate buildings well.

Housing

The housing market is refreshingly accessible. One-bedroom apartments in the city center rent for $320 to $428 per month, while two- to three-bedroom options average $535 to $640 per month. In the leafy suburbs or nearby villages, you can find more space for less, especially if you prefer a quieter lifestyle.

If you’re buying, options range from $86,000 for smaller apartments to over $420,000 for family homes or modern houses with lake views. High-end properties, although limited, are available in scenic neighborhoods such as Stavraki or Katsikas. The market moves slower than in Athens, but that can work in a buyer’s favor—less pressure, more opportunity to find something that truly suits your rhythm.

Final Verdict: Is Ioannina Right for You?

Ioannina is ideal for expats seeking substance over surface. It suits those who value nature, history, and a lifestyle that unfolds slowly and meaningfully. Retirees with a sense of adventure, remote workers in search of beauty and balance, and spiritually inclined souls drawn to mountains and monasteries will feel right at home here.

It’s not for everyone. But if you’re willing to learn the language, embrace the seasons, and exchange tourist gloss for authentic rhythm, Ioannina might just be the Greek home you didn’t know you were looking for.