Where is France?

When you think of France, you probably imagine the grand boulevards of Paris, the sparkling lights of the Eiffel Tower, and perhaps a few of the eternal icons of the City of Light—the Seine River, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the Louvre museum, to name just a few. Toss in a few Frenchmen wearing berets and cycling through the flower-filled countryside (baguettes in hand), and your picture of la Belle France might be quite complete.

In some parts of France, these images still hold true, but this enchanting country, which has beguiled travelers throughout the ages, has many diverse, spectacular regions that extend far beyond its glamorous capital.

France is divided into 13 separate regions, including the Mediterranean island of Corsica. France previously had 22 regions, but for administrative and budgetary reasons, they were merged into the current 13 in 2016.

While the names of regions may have changed for administration purposes, they remain as culturally and geographically distinct as ever. That’s why we’re continuing to use the former regional names throughout this manual. We indicate the new administrative names where appropriate.

Each region is subdivided into départements, the French equivalent of counties. The départements of each original region remain unchanged. As you’ll see, a number follows the name of each département—for example, Dordogne (24). These numbers are the first two numbers of the département’s postal code.

Regions in France

Alsace (now part of the Grand Est region) contains two départements: Bas-Rhin (67) and Haut-Rhin (68). Its main city, Strasbourg, is the regional capital. Other main towns are Colmar and Mulhouse. Primarily an agricultural area of vineyards and orchards, Alsace shares borders with Germany and Switzerland (the eastern frontier is the Rhine River). Scattered between Colmar and the Vosges Mountains are some exquisite medieval villages. Toward the city of Mulhouse and the Rhine, it becomes more industrial. For more information on the region, visit: www.tourisme-alsace.com/en.

Aquitaine (now part of Nouvelle Aquitaine) is made up of five départements: the Dordogne (24), the Gironde (33), Lot-et-Garonne (47), Les Landes (40), and Pyrénées-Atlantiques (64). The regional capital, Bordeaux, is particularly renowned for its wines but is a seaport city as well as a burgeoning industrial and commercial center. With the Atlantic on its western edge, most of Aquitaine is rural. The jewel in its crown is the wonderfully scenic Dordogne, an inland département. For more information on the region, visit: www.nouvelle-aquitaine-tourisme.com/en.

Auvergne (now part of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes) has four départements: Allier (03), Puy-de-Dôme (63), Haute-Loire (43), and Cantal (15). Lying at the heart of the Massif Central, its regional capital is now Lyon, in the Rhône-Alpes area. Laced with a chain of extinct volcanoes, crater lakes, and little thermal spa towns such as Vichy, the Auvergne is where you’ll find some of France’s wildest and most unspoiled countryside. Known as “the cathedral of the forest,” Le Puy-en-Velay is a breathtaking town of shrines and churches built upon rocky pinnacles. Much of the Auvergne landscape is sparsely populated. You could feel isolated living here (which is great if that’s what you’re looking for, of course). For more information on the region, visit: www.clermontauvergnetourisme.com/en.

Brittany (Bretagne) is France’s Celtic fringe and has four départements: Côtes-d’Armor (22), Morbihan (56), Ille-et-Vilaine (35), and Finistère (29) (literally “Land’s End”). Open to the sea on three sides, Brittany’s 800 miles of jagged cliff-top coastline are a lovely succession of little walled towns, oyster beds, and fishing ports. The main city is Rennes. From the megalithic standing stones at Carnac to Merlin’s mysterious forêt de Brocéliande with its associated Arthurian legends, this is a land shrouded in mystery. But be aware that quite a bit of rain falls here. For more information on the region, visit: www.brittanytourism.com.

Burgundy (Bourgogne—now part of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté) has four départements: Yonne (89), Nièvre (58), Saône-et-Loire (71), and the Côte d’Or (21). Famous for its top-quality wines and cassis (the famous blackcurrant liqueur), much of Burgundy is a wine lover’s paradise, with hundreds of vineyards dotting the area’s gently rising slopes. Chablis, Pouilly-sur-Loire, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaunes, Côte Châlonnaise, and Mâconnais are some of the best-known names, although you can also snap up excellent, less expensive wines at many of the region’s smaller vineyards. While the wine-growing area around Dijon, the region’s capital, is one of the most charming parts of this vast region, nature lovers may particularly enjoy the woods, lakes, canals, and rolling hills of the Yonne and Nièvre. For more information on the region, visit: https://burgundy-tourism.com.

Centre-Val de Loire is, as the name suggests, in central France. With a lush, green landscape veined by one of France’s best-known rivers—the Loire—it’s not surprising that the name of this region was recently changed from “Centre” to “Centre-Val de Loire.” Indeed, most people have referred to the region as the “Loire Valley” for years. Now it’s official. Just an hour south of Paris by train, the emphasis is on royal châteaux and pastoral villages. There are six départements: Cher (18), Eure-et-Loire (28), Indre (36), Indre-et-Loire (37), Loire-et-Cher (41), and Loiret (45). Together with the neighboring Pays de la Loire region, this is the green heart of castle country and thus a big tourist attraction. The préfecture, or regional capital, is Orléans, forever associated with Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc), the Maid of Orléans. For more information on the region, visit: www.valdeloire-tourisme.fr.

Champagne-Ardenne (now part of Grand Est) is made up of four départements: Ardennes (08), Aube (10), Marne (51), and Haute-Marne (52). It’s a tranquil region of low population density. There are few large towns or cities apart from Reims, a cathedral city with a famous statue called The Smiling Angel. The vineyards around Reims and Épernay form what’s called the “Avenue of Champagne,” winding through hills, two national parks, and pretty historical towns like Troyes and Châlons-en-Champagne. For more information on the region, visit: www.explore-grandest.com/en.

Corsica (Corse) has only two départements: Haute-Corse (2B) and Corse-du- Sud (2A). Now known as the île de beauté (the beautiful island), this Mediterranean hideaway has some incredible landscapes of densely wooded mountain peaks, long, sandy beaches, and rocky coves. Its two major cities are Bastia in the northeast and Ajaccio, the birthplace of Napoleon, in the southwest. One of the loveliest coastal settlements is Bonifacio, a spectacular fortified town whose walls have never been breached. And if you like your history spicy, you’ll be pleased to know that Corsica was once notorious for its lawless bandits and bloody vendettas. For more information on the region, visit: www.visit-corsica.com/en.

Franche-Comté (now part of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté) is in eastern France, bordering Switzerland, and has four départements: Haut-Saône (70), Doubs (25), Belfort (90), and Jura (39). A relatively undiscovered land of fir trees, river gorges, waterfalls, crystal lakes, and yet more vineyards, its administrative capital is Besançon. This is the heart of French clock-making territory. Besançon’s astronomical clock doesn’t just tell the time; it also gives the phases of the moon and the tides. For more information on the region, visit: www.franche-comte.org.

Île-de-France has eight départements, including Paris (75). The other seven are Seine-et-Marne (77), Yvelines (78), Essonne (91), Hauts-de-Seine (92), Seine-Saint- Denis (93), Val-de-Marne (94), and Val-d’Oise (95). All of this area is commuter-land, but there are attractive waterfront villages on the Seine and Marne rivers, many noted for their guinguettes, or wine taverns. With Paris such a major draw, the region’s medieval towns tend to be forgotten. Historical gems include Provins, La Roche- Guyon, and Vexin. For more information on the region, visit: www.iledefrance.fr.

Occitanie (the former Languedoc-Rousillon) is made up of the départements of Aude (11), Gard (30), Hérault (34), Lozère (48), and Pyrénées-Orientales (66). The “other” South of France, this sun-drenched region borders Spain and seems to have everything buyers could wish for—at affordable prices. Fringed by the Mediterranean coastline, it has magnificent mountains and river gorges, drowsy villages, and a fascinating medieval history. With massively thick walls and fairytale turrets, the fortified city of Carcassonne offers one of the most incredible cityscapes in Europe. You may decide to buy elsewhere, but we think this region is one you should seriously consider. For more information on the region, visit: www.visit-occitanie.com/en.

Limousin (now part of Nouvelle-Aquitaine) has just three départements: the Corrèze (19), Creuse (23), and the Haute-Vienne (87). A tranquil realm of hills, meadows, and river gorges, this region lies on the western edge of the Massif Central. The only sizeable center of population is Limoges, famous for its cathedral and delicate porcelain and enamel. One of France’s most visited memorials is situated in the Haute-Vienne, Oradour-sur-Glane. It commemorates a massacre during World War II, when the village’s entire 642 inhabitants were executed, before the village was burnt to the ground. The Monts de Blond hills of the Haute- Vienne are a former Celtic stronghold, a stonewalled realm of fairy rocks and secret pathways. For more information on the region, visit: www.nouvelle-aquitaine-tourisme.com/en.

Lorraine (now part of Grand Est) has four départements: Meurthe-et-Moselle (54), Moselle (57), Meuse (55), and Vosges (88). Giving its name to quiche Lorraine (a kind of egg-and-bacon pie), much of this part of northeastern France is an industrial region, especially around the big cities of Nancy and Metz. The best countryside escapes are found in the greenery of the Vosges Mountains to the south. For more information on the region, visit: www.tourism-lorraine.com.

Midi-Pyrénées (now part of Occitanie) has eight départements: Ariège (09), Aveyron (12), Haute-Garonne (31), Gers (32), Lot (46), Hautes-Pyrénées (65), Tarn (81), and Tarn-et-Garonne (82). Rose-pink Toulouse, a university city, is the largest regional metropolis. Lying in the rural heart of Midi-Pyrénées is the area once known as Gascony, famous for Armagnac brandy as well as d’Artagnan and the Three Musketeers. One of the prettiest towns in this domain of mountains, gorges, and bastide (fortified) villages is Albi, the birthplace of the artist Toulouse-Lautrec. Another is the old pilgrim town of Rocamadour, in the Lot département, which lies on the route to the shrine of St. James in Spain’s Santiago de Compostela. A local saying sums up the charms of Rocamadour and this spectacular locale: “Houses along the stream, churches above the houses, rocks above the churches, castles above the rocks.” For more information on the region, visit: www.tourisme-occitanie.com.

Nord-Pas-de-Calais (now part of Nord-Pas-de-Calais-Picardie) has two départements: Nord (59) and Pas-de-Calais (62). This area is often thought of as gray and charmless, although it has a reputation for having some of the friendliest residents in all of France—particularly in the regional capital of Lille, an attractive and welcoming city listed by Architectural Digest as one of The Top 20 Places to Travel in 2020. Heavily industrialized, the port city of Le Havre is one of France’s busiest shipping areas and is home to important multinational companies like Coca-Cola and Chevron. For more information on the region, visit: www.hautsdefrance.fr/mot/tourisme.

Lower Normandy (now part of Normandie). Previously divided into Lower and Upper Normandy, Normandy is now administratively a single region. The former Lower Normandy includes the three départements of Calvados (14), Manche (50), and Orne (61). In France’s breezy northwest, this is apple orchard and cider country, fringed by great sandy beaches and the English Channel (which the French call La Manche). The regional capital is Caen, birthplace of William the Conqueror and also the source of tripes à la mode de Caen. In case you didn’t know, tripe is cow’s stomach and is often sold ready-prepared in jars. Definitely an acquired taste! A stone’s throw from Caen is Bayeux, site of the famous tapestry depicting the Norman Conquest of England. For more information on the region, visit: www.normandy-tourism.org.

Upper Normandy (now part of Normandie) has only two départements: Eure (27) and Seine-Maritime (76). With a pretty vieille ville (or old quarter) of timbered houses, the regional capital is Rouen. Despite pockets of industrialization, mostly around the Seine Valley, the port of Le Havre, and Rouen itself, the landscape is mostly agricultural, producing cider apples and cheeses, including ripe, creamy Camembert. The best port town is Dieppe, with its excellent seafood restaurants. But the real crowd-puller here is water lilies. Not just any old water lilies, but those captured on canvas by the Impressionist painter Claude Monet. His house and gardens are at Giverny. For more information on the region, visit: www.normandy-tourism.org.

Pays de la Loire (Western Loire) is quintessential châteaux and vineyard country. Ribboned by the Loire, the longest river in France, the region’s five départements are Loire-Atlantique (44), Mayenne (53), Sarthe (72), Maine-et-Loire (49), and Vendée (85). The big city hereabouts is Nantes, although most visitors come to see the Loire’s Sleeping Beauty castles and lush, green valleys, Chartres Cathedral with its famous stained-glass windows, or the motor racing at Le Mans. Fringed by the Atlantic and more than 200 miles of coastline to the west, the best-known seaside resorts are La Baule-Escoublac and Les Sables d’Olonne. For more information on the region, visit: www.atlantic-loire-valley.com.

Picardy (now part of Nord-Pas-de-Calais-Picardie). Do you like Chantilly lace? Picardy is where to come for it, although it’s not the most attractive region in France. There are three départements here: Somme (80), Aisne (02), and Oise (60). Although predominantly agricultural, the Picardy landscape is mainly made up of flat plains where mechanized farms produce wheat, potatoes, and sugar beet. Famous for its Gothic masterpiece of a cathedral, Amiens is the largest town in the region. By the way, Chantilly isn’t famous only for lace. It’s also credited with being the birthplace of whipped cream. For more information on the region, visit: www. tourisme-territoirenordpicardie.com/home.

Poitou-Charentes (now part of Nouvelle Aquitaine) has four départements: Charente (16), Charente-Maritime (17), Deux Sèvres (79), and Vienne (86). With 100 miles of Atlantic coastline and an estimated 2,250 annual hours of sunshine, the combination of mild weather and tranquil attractive countryside could be just what you’re looking for. The former regional capital is the ancient university city of Poitiers. The next-largest town is the equally historic port of La Rochelle. Grapes from the region’s many vineyards are used to produce Cognac brandy. Visit the town of the same name for tours and tastings. One statistic for potential homebuyers who prefer to remain aloof: This region is said to have more people living in detached houses than any other part of France. This is yet another rewarding hunting ground for local specialties. Candied angelica is made from plants growing in the marshes of Marais Poitevin, a pocket known as “Green Venice.” And it’s here that you can buy the best butter in France—Beurre d’Échiré. Just like good wines, it comes with an appellation contrôlée (controlled designation) label. For more information on the region, visit: www.infiniment-charentes.com.

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur is one of the three largest regions of France and is bordered by the azure Mediterranean. There are six départements here: Alpes-de- Haute-Provence (04), Hautes-Alpes (05), Alpes-Maritime (06), Bouches-du-Rhône (13), Var (83), and Vaucluse (84). The préfecture (or regional capital) is Marseille. The former capital, Aix-en-Provence, is the birthplace of the painter Cézanne and is known as the artistic, and cultural center of the region. While the coastline is undoubtedly built-up, many Riviera towns have kept their charm—Antibes and Menton are two of our favorites. From the glitz and glamour of the Riviera to the sun-drenched countryside with its picture-perfect little towns and fields of lavender, there’s lots to see and do here. If you avoid the pricier coastal towns and look to the hilltop villages around inland Provence and the area known as the Luberon, you can still find great deals on countryside homes. For more information on the region, visit: www.provence-alpes-cotedazur.com/en.

Rhône-Alpes (now part of Auvergne Rhône-Alpes) has eight départements: Ain (01), Ardèche (07), Drôme (26), Isère (38), Loire (42), Rhône (69), Savoie (73), and Haute- Savoie (74). The regional capital, Lyon, is the country’s second city and yet another gastronomic center. Scenic splendors range from the lonely hills and moors of the Ardèche, to the Savoy Alps. The gem of the Haute-Savoie, the city of Annecy, sits on a pristine lake, and its vieille ville (old town) is a criss-cross of flower-laden canals which rival the splendors of Venice. Prime skiing country and bordering Italy, the French Alps contain the mighty Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest mountain. For more information on the region, visit: www.auvergnerhonealpes-tourisme.com.