As France’s most important naval port, Toulon has often been regarded as a blip on the otherwise pristine coastline known as the Côte d’Azur. Though it shares many of the same attributes as its glamorous neighbors to the east—Cannes, Antibes, and Nice—the city has remained an under-the-radar detour for tourists and expats alike.
Even after a well-intentioned revitalization effort and the arrival of trendy French restaurants and a Parisian-style food hall, Toulon still lives in the shadow of its past. Several decades ago, this Mediterranean city in southern France was known as a rough-and-tumble enclave, its historic center packed with bars, nightclubs, and rum joints catering to sailors and other seafarers on leave.
When I moved to Toulon in 2010, I had no idea about its checkered past. What I found was a city similar in size to my hometown of Ventura, California (Toulon has around 190,000 residents), with many of the same attractive features I’d cherished back home, only for a fraction of the price.
Namely: excellent weather, a diverse social scene, and a beautiful waterfront location.
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Southern California Allure, Portfolio-Friendly
Much like Southern California, this corner of southeastern France enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine, typically over 300 days a year. Also like Ventura, Toulon has a compact historic center alive with community spirit.
At its heart is the iconic Toulon Opera (one of the oldest in France), surrounded by a walkable warren of bistros, cafés, boutiques, and tempting French bakeries. Romantic squares and bubbling fountains only add to the charm.
Place Puget, a cozy square flanked by pastel-colored buildings and home to the moss-covered Three Dolphins Fountain (Fontaine des Trois Dauphins), is a popular meeting spot.
For a quick bite, locals head to Maison Sarroche, a bakery and casual eatery where the display cases brim with swoon-worthy French pastries and freshly baked breads. Grab a hefty ham-and-Camembert baguette or choose from daily specials like chicken and cashew curry, quinoa Mediterranean salad, or pain bagnat (a tuna sandwich from Nice). Prices range from $7 to $13.
It’s also the perfect place for hand-molded holiday chocolates (Christmas and Easter) and decadent cakes for any occasion. Take a chocolate éclair and café au lait outside and enjoy the sunshine from Maison Sarroche’s outdoor seating. One of the favorite pastimes of the Toulonnais (residents of Toulon) is simply soaking up the sun at a sidewalk café—often with a glass of rosé or a pastis, the anise-flavored local favorite.
Next door, lunchtime diners at Chantilly are likely enjoying some of the finest food in town. Voted the number one bistro in the Var—the département (county) where Toulon is located—Chantilly is a beloved local institution.
Menu highlights include a salmon, mango, and avocado tartare, bavette (French steak) with roasted vegetables and hand-cut fries, and roast chicken in a thyme reduction sauce. With its own pastry chef, the desserts are not to be missed. Expect to pay $18 to $26 for gourmet plates. (Their website is a Facebook page.)
A bit farther along, you’ll discover one of Toulon’s tastiest and most stylish destinations: Les Halles, a covered food hall that rivals those in France’s grandest cities. Opened in 2021, it offers an eclectic mix of culinary delights—from Italian to Spanish, seafood to BBQ, charcuterie to Swiss fondue.
One of my favorite spots in Toulon, I often grab a leisurely lunch at a high-top bar or outside on the terrace. I might pick up a 12-piece sushi box from Easy Sushi (their chicken Caesar rolls are amazing) or a €6 potato and chorizo tortilla from La Casa Pincho, the tapas stand. There’s also a dedicated beverage bar, where a glass of the wine of the day goes for €7, my last one was a refreshing rosé from Château de l’Aumérade.
Beyond its culinary scene, Toulon is gaining a reputation as an up-and-coming destination for artists. In 2017, the city opened the Rue des Arts, an arts district just a two-minute walk from Les Halles. Backed by mayoral funding, it’s home to chic galleries that wouldn’t be out of place in Saint-Tropez.
Other cultural offerings include ballet, opera, and theater performances at the Toulon Opera and Liberté Theatre, stand-up comedy at Le Colbert, outdoor concerts at Mourillon Beach, and the annual Toulon Jazz Festival every July.
In 2023, the city opened a sleek new Médiathèque (library + conference center) in the Chalucet “Creativity and Growth” neighborhood, a quiet place for readers, writers, and digital nomads to spend the day.
And for shoppers, Toulon’s city center features familiar favorites: Galeries Lafayette for upscale fashion and cosmetics, and Monoprix for trendy home goods and budget-friendly style—think of it as the French version of Target.
The Thrill of Life Along the Mediterranean
While the historic center offers a host of wonderful diversions, for many, the real thrill of living in Toulon is its location, right on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea.
Follow Cours Lafayette, one of the city’s central boulevards and home to Toulon’s lively farmers market, and in about five minutes you’ll reach the port. While it’s not the most picturesque port on the French Riviera, apartment buildings partially block the view, it’s still a great place to enjoy the catch of the day while watching ferries and sailboats glide across the bay.
From the port, many locals hop on their bikes or set out on foot along the paved path that leads to the beaches of Mourillon. With 28% of Toulon’s population over the age of 60, you’re likely to see plenty of retirees along the way—just one example of how the city’s sizable older population stays active and fit.
Though Mourillon is a popular vacation spot in July and August, its beaches are among the most relaxing places to spend your days in Toulon year-round.
A series of stone jettys form small, protected bays along the coastline. Each of these semi-circles has its own restaurant or café, connected by a paved path that lets you stroll easily from one beach to the next. Groups often gather to practice yoga beneath the palm trees or take early morning swims. Most days, the retiree crowd seems to have claimed the shore.
Further along, you’ll find tennis courts, and during the summer months, a roaming bookmobile sets up shop near the beach.
Numerous festivals take place at Mourillon throughout the year, including the Night of the Fishermen (Nuit des Pêcheurs) and the neighborhood’s famous summer White Party (Soirée Blanche). Expect live music, food stalls, and plenty of chilled rosé at both.
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Sizable Savings on Housing and Transportation
After COVID, Toulon saw a modest uptick in housing prices as Parisians and other remote workers relocated “down south” for the sunny skies and slower pace of life. That said, the city remains around 20% more affordable than other spots along the Côte d’Azur.
My American friend Jackie, from South Carolina, currently rents a furnished two-bedroom, 980-square-foot apartment for €950 (about $1,080) per month. Off the kitchen, she has a loggia for extra storage, and panoramic windows on both sides—offering views of Faron Mountain to the north and Toulon’s port to the south. We’ve enjoyed watching the Bastille Day fireworks from her balcony.
With the exception of the Mourillon, Cap Brun, and Serinette neighborhoods, rental prices drop the further you move from the city center. Two-bedroom apartments of about 900 square feet are plentiful and start at around €220,000 ($250,579) in desirable locations.
Since the housing supply consists largely of apartments, detached homes are pricier. A two-bedroom home with a small garden typically starts around €360,000 ($410,000). Some residents choose to live in nearby villages and commute to the city by train or bus for better value.
A single bus fare costs €2.10 ($2.40), and a monthly unlimited pass is just €33 ($38). While owning a car is convenient, it’s far from essential. The central train station is easily accessible on foot or by public transport.
The SNCF intercity rail system runs along the coast and is a genuine pleasure to use. A ride to nearby Hyères, gateway to the stunning island of Porquerolles, also gives access to coastal favorites like Antibes, Cannes, and Nice. Watching the Mediterranean drift by on a day trip is one of the joys of living here.
Residents can purchase an inter-regional monthly pass for €73 ($83), which covers unlimited rail, bus, and “boat-bus” service in the Marseille–Provence–Aix-en-Provence region (including travel to cities between Nice and Marseille). The pass also includes airport shuttle service.
You can live comfortably in Toulon on around $2,800 a month. Expect to spend $850–$950 on rent, $600 on groceries (for a couple), about $100 on utilities, $47 for an internet and cell phone bundle, and roughly $200 for healthcare (on the higher end). Add your personal transportation, dining, and travel expenses—and you’ll still likely find room in your budget for exploring the rest of Europe.
Toulon is best served by the Marseille-Provence International Airport (the closest major hub) or the airport in Nice.
Final Verdict
On paper, Toulon sounds idyllic. With its coveted spot along the French Riviera, 300+ days of sunshine each year, and a lively arts and food scene, there’s a lot to recommend in this southern enclave.
However, Toulon isn’t for everyone. One of its greatest hidden strengths—its authenticity—is also one of the biggest drawbacks for some expats. There are very few foreigners or English speakers in town. Toulon still lives somewhat in the shadow of its past and hasn’t yet attracted the expat attention of nearby hotspots like Nice or Aix-en-Provence.
That said, the city can be an excellent retirement destination for those with at least an intermediate level of French and a willingness to dive headfirst into French customs and culture. The same goes for digital nomads looking for affordability, charm, and a laidback south-of-France lifestyle.
Families, especially those with young children, may find more support and resources in international communities such as Nice, Cannes, or Aix-en-Provence.
