Esposende, Portugal

Perfect for creatives and retirees, Esposende inspires a slower life.|©iStock/THEGIFT777

Hidden Places: Esposende, Portugal

“Let me help you!” I’d just realized the microphone I had clipped to my sweater was missing. It was a warm February afternoon, and I was speaking with Quirino, owner of X Praça Wine Bar and Tapas. He offered to look for it, and soon the restaurant manager and two of the waitstaff joined the hunt on the sunny outdoor patio. That’s when I remembered how sweet life is—not only in a lazy beach town, but in Portugal in general.

Located in the Braga District of northern Portugal, Esposende is officially designated a city but feels more like a town. With peaceful days and quiet nights, it’s the ideal location for someone to write a book, paint a seascape, or simply chill. The local population of about 10,000 enjoys dry, mostly clear summers and winters that are cold, wet, and partly cloudy.

In 2012, I lived in Esposende. With so much change across Portugal in the years since, I recently wondered: Had it changed, too?

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Lifestyle and Culture

Street vendors set up outside the church in Esposende’s historic center.|©iStock/THEGIFT777

The answer? Not much.

A typical day might involve a pleasant walk along the marginal of the Cávado River, which empties into the Atlantic here. There are a few cafés and restaurants to stop into along your stroll, where you can enjoy a coffee, a meal, or a glass of wine.

Speaking of walking, it’s not uncommon to encounter people on the Camino de Santiago, the pilgrimage route that ends at Santiago de Compostela in Spain. A major religious destination since the ninth century, those who begin the journey in Porto cross five main rivers—one of them being the Cávado.

You might head to one of the boutiques in the center of town, then lunch at De Lili & Ca Gourmet for homemade, organic food. Or pack a picnic and head to Castro de São Lourenço, a pre-Roman settlement located in Vila Chã, set in the woods 600 feet above sea level. It offers panoramic views over Esposende.

Maybe it’s time to shop for groceries at one of the local supermarkets. Or perhaps today is the weekly farmers’ market in the heart of town.

Feeling sporty? Esposende is one of the windiest places in Portugal, with stretches of uncrowded beaches and waves for surfers of varying ability. But beware—the water is chilly! Around 58 F in winter, and 63 F in summer.

Tricia and Quirino, owner of X Praça Wine Bar and Tapas. |©Keith Pimental

You might consider kitesurfing (lessons available) in a flatwater spot protected by dunes near the river mouth. Other water options include boat trips, jet skiing, diving, canoeing, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, paddleboarding, and bodyboarding.

For the less adventurous, there’s birdwatching, hiking, horseback riding, cycling, or golf. There are three courses within twenty minutes of Esposende. I spoke with Susana Costa and her colleague Gonçalo at Estela Golf, a nine-hole course that’s open to the public or available by membership.

Finish your day with an early dinner at Água Pé, where I loved the petit filet mignon, amazing steak fries, and impeccable service. Or try Shore House for “food with a view” of the ocean, and watch the sun set as you sip a colorful cocktail.

As for needing to know Portuguese, we stopped into Hotel Axis Ofir just outside of town and chatted with Cláudia at reception. She is Portuguese, greeted me in English, and while we spoke, she made a reservation in Spanish. This seems to be the rule in Esposende: locals may not be fluent in English, but those in hospitality usually speak enough to help. We found the same at Hotel Suave Mar, located on the main street facing the ocean, where many tourists stay during high season (mid-June to mid-September).

Accessibility, Transportation, and Infrastructure

A cyclist enjoys the seaside promenade in peaceful, breezy Esposende.|©iStock/THEGIFT777

Getting to Esposende is easy. It’s a 30-minute drive from Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport in Porto, or about 40 minutes and $9.75 by bus. From the bus station in town, you can reach Porto in around an hour.

The city is quite walkable—almost entirely flat. We had a car when we lived here and found it handy. Walking from where we lived on the beach of Cepães into the town center took more than half an hour, but just five minutes by car. It took twice that long to reach the supermarket—and who wants to lug home heavy grocery bags?

If you prefer not to own a car here, the solution is simple. A taxi ride from town starts at $4.25, with an average of about $2.60 per mile. Uber is also available.

Cost of Living

$Esposende’s cafés offer ocean views and coffee for a fraction of city prices.$

Esposende’s cafés offer ocean views and coffee for a fraction of city prices.|©Keith Pimental

When we lived in Cepães, we paid $650 a month for a two-bedroom condo with access to a shared pool. Checking prices this February, I found some two-bedroom condos in that area for similar rates. In town, a one-bedroom was listed at $817, and two-bedrooms ranged from $872 to $1,090. A three-bedroom rental came in at $1,416.

For those looking to buy, I found two-bedroom properties starting around $275,000, with three-bedroom condos ranging from $340,000 to $450,000.

In terms of overall expenses, there are real savings to be had here. For example, restaurant costs are 36% lower than in Lisbon, and about 60% less than in either Los Angeles or Tampa, Florida.

Healthcare and Fitness

As a legal tax resident in Portugal, you can access the Serviço Nacional de Saúde (SNS), meaning you’re eligible for a wide range of health services at low—or even no—cost.

There is a Hospital de Esposende, and Hospital de Fão is nearby. Also, Hospital da Luz, a private facility, is located in Póvoa de Varzim, just 20 minutes away. Additional hospitals and clinics can be found in both Porto and Guimarães, each about 45 minutes from Esposende.

To stay in shape, a Fitness Factory membership costs around $35 per month. Esposende 2000 offers a swimming pool with a wave machine, outdoor sports, and a health club (massages available). And for younger residents, Monkey Park provides a great outlet for fun and exercise.

The Verdict: Ready Now

Historic charm and laid-back cafés in Esposende’s town center.|©iStock/PierreOlivierClementMantion

If you want to live near the water—but not surrounded by tourists—Esposende is the place for you. Think of it like living in Maine, without the freezing winters: you wouldn’t expect to be sunbathing year-round, and you’d anticipate tourists in the summer. But the presence of the ocean defines the spirit of the place.

Creative types—writers, artists—will find inspiration in the natural beauty and calm, reflective atmosphere. It’s also ideal for seniors, even those with mobility challenges, thanks to the flat terrain. Sporty types have no shortage of options. Remote workers will appreciate the excellent internet and cell coverage.

If you enjoy nightlife, as mentioned, Porto is close by. A good comparison in the south might be Loulé, where you’d need to drive 25 to 30 minutes to Vilamoura or Albufeira for livelier nightlife. It’s similar here.

The city feels like it’s been frozen in time—in the best possible way—and I don’t expect it to change much anytime soon. It’s still uncrowded, with many of the same restaurants. While housing prices have increased, they haven’t skyrocketed like those in Lisbon, Porto, or the Algarve.

We had once planned to purchase a home here, where we spent some of our happiest times in Portugal. Perhaps it could be that for you as well.