Older than Rome, Ascoli Piceno is an unforgettable, splendidly decorated hidden gem of Italy. Built entirely of carved travertine and punctuated by 50 towers, it is an architectural inspiration. Located between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea in central Italy, Ascoli Piceno is the fourth-largest city in the Marche Region, with a population of about 46,000 inhabitants.
The city center, on a flat plateau surrounded by deep river valleys, is a spectacle of elegance, grandeur, and romance.
Gorgeous churches, striking piazzas, and arcaded palaces are entwined with stylish fashion boutiques, drug stores, government buildings, artisan workshops, coffee bars, grocery stores, and family-run eateries. The centro storico (historic center) is a tapestry of ancient tradition woven with urban threads of convenient modern life. The city is vibrant with concerts, food festivals, a sprawling twice-weekly open-air market, opera, symphony, theater, art exhibits, and year-round celebrations.
Friendly and welcoming, the Ascolani (or Piceni) people are a fascinating mix of cosmopolitan attitudes and provincial pride—hip but unpretentious. Ascoli Piceno rocks the good life. You see it in the smiles of its people and feel it just walking around.
But how does it fare as an expat destination? Let’s take a closer look.
The Lifestyle & Atmosphere
Looking for a place to call home in Italy? Ascoli Piceno offers expats that elusive “Dolce Vita” they dream about. The flat, walkable centro is easy to navigate, with services and amenities within a few steps, even for those with limited mobility. Locals use bicycles, and some three-wheel versions even have weatherproof ragtops.
The lamppost-studded walls surrounding the historic center overlook the river valleys, offering breathtaking views. Outdoor lovers can enjoy hiking trails, various activities, and the Adriatic beaches, which are only 15 minutes away.
Walk five minutes from the center to a local language school for Italian lessons. The school can also help you find leisure activities and social groups, making it easy to meet new friends.
There is a small but thriving expat community in Ascoli Piceno. Conversations with local expats reveal that they love the pace of life, the cultural activities, and the convenience of the city. The local healthcare system is highly rated, and expats appreciate their doctors and medical services.
However, some note that the distance to an international airport is an inconvenience.
Visiting Ascoli Piceno is a must if you are considering relocating; it’s also a wonderful vacation destination.
Stay in the historic center for easy access to almost everything. There are many hotels and B&Bs. The 16th-century Palazzo Dei Mercanti - Dimora & Spa features a modern interior and comfortable rooms. Enjoy a splendid breakfast, a wellness center, a restaurant, and an airport shuttle. Rooms, including spa access, range from €136–€153 ($141–$159).
The Palazzo Guiderocchi, a 17th-century converted palazzo on Piazza del Popolo, boasts an arcade-lined courtyard and period décor. Guests can enjoy delicious breakfasts in their rooms, private parking, and a prime location. Prices range from €75–€101 ($78–$105) per night.
Cost of Living & Housing
The cost of living in Ascoli Piceno is similar to that of other mid-sized Italian cities. From an economic standpoint, Ascoli Piceno seems to have fully recovered from the COVID years. Prices for groceries, household items, dining, and entertainment are comparable to those in similar cities.
Housing in the historic center is difficult to find and relatively expensive, but farmhouses in the countryside or apartments in suburban sections are more plentiful. The countryside is hilly, but services and amenities are still easily accessible.
Real estate offices are sprinkled throughout the centro. Many agents speak English and offer both rental and purchase options. Here are some examples:
For Sale
A three-bedroom country house (1.5 miles from city center, views of Sibillini Mountains) – $195,000
A restored furnished home (historic center, two bedrooms, 1,500 sq. ft.) – $164,000
An updated three-bedroom country home (1,350 sq. ft., panoramic terrace, on 7.5 acres) – $256,500
For Rent
A large, fully furnished third-floor apartment (four bedrooms, two baths, two balconies) – $1,200/month
A centrally located fourth-floor apartment (1,500 sq. ft., three beds, two baths, parking) – $650/month
Real Estate Agents
Domus Imobiliare di Ventili Cinzia – +39 335 638 0801
Vinci Properties – +39 348 306 7000
Accessibility & Infrastructure
Visiting Ascoli Piceno is a must for those considering relocation; it is also a wonderful vacation destination. It’s a three-hour drive from Rome via Highway A24.
By Air: Fly from Rome or Milan to Ancona or Pescara regional airports, then drive or take a train to Ascoli.
By Train: From Milan, take a train to Lecce/Bari, change in San Benedetto del Tronto, then a 40-minute train ride to Ascoli. Alternatively, take a direct train from Rome to San Benedetto del Tronto, then continue to Ascoli Piceno.
Culture & Cuisine
A great way to get a feel for Ascoli is by visiting the tourist bureau or bookstore in city hall to inquire about local events and cultural activities. Then, grab a map and start exploring:
Marvel at the architecture, take a guided tour of the city, or visit a winery.
Discover Roman ruins, historic museums, or castle fortresses.
Experience the flavors of Italy by learning how real olive oil is made.
Wander into a jeweler’s studio, a ceramic painter’s atelier, or a lute maker’s workshop to watch artisans at work.
The Archaeology Museum, though small, is worth a visit.
Don’t miss the frescoed cathedral of Sant’Emidio, with its crypt and baptistery.
If visiting during Fat Tuesday and the week before, the Ascoli Carnivale transforms the entire city into a theatrical stage of costumes and satire. Imagine stepping into a Fellini movie, where actors poke fun at famous personalities and current events. In the evening, Piazza del Popolo glows under long rows of suspended chandeliers, turning the square into a grand masquerade ballroom with thousands of revelers.
From late June through early August, don’t miss the medieval “Joust of the Quintana”, held on the first Sunday of August. The lead-up features celebrations every weekend, culminating in a 1,500-person medieval parade through the streets. The mayor, city aldermen, and costumed nobility march alongside representatives from the city’s six historic districts (Sestieri), each with its colors and banners. The highlight is the knightly jousting tournament, where armored riders race against the clock to strike a rotating dummy with lances.
Cuisine & Dining
Ascoli Piceno is a paradise for food lovers, offering a mix of seafood, meats, and flavorful pasta dishes.
The city’s most famous specialty is olive all’Ascolana—large, tender green olives stuffed with meat, then deep-fried to perfection. Always ask if they are “fatto a mano” (handmade) for the best experience.
Other must-try dishes include seasonal cold cuts and sausages, eggs with lamb giblets, egg pasta with tuna sauce, ricotta-stuffed ravioli, and cheese breads. To accompany these flavors, Ascoli Piceno is known for its bold reds and crisp whites, including Ascoli Reds, as well as Falerio, Pecorino, and Passerina whites.
Recommended Restaurants:
C’era una Volta – A homey atmosphere serving local comfort food, roast meats, and desserts. Don’t miss the olive all’Ascoli! €20–€30 ($21–$31) per person.
Taverna Di Cecco – Specializing in artisanal bread, local organic wines, and produce from their own garden. €20–€30 ($21–$31) per person.
Piccolo Teatro – Offers seasonal cuisine made with fresh, local ingredients. €30–€40 ($31–$41) per person.
Piazza del Popolo
Called “La Sala” (the living room) by the locals, Piazza del Popolo is the city’s largest and most cherished square. Lined with elegant arcades, a towering clock, a cathedral, and travertine palaces, the square shifts colors and glows at night, making it one of the most enchanting piazzas in Italy.
At one corner sits the famous Caffè Meletti, a historic Art Deco café where house-distilled Anisetta Meletti liqueur was first created. Its restored interior maintains the elegance of a bygone era, transporting visitors to the early 20th century.
For a truly unforgettable experience, sit under the Meletti portico at sundown, watching the piazza turn from shell-pink to gold, while sipping on an aperitif or a coffee, paired with mouth-watering pastries or snacks.
Ascoli Piceno is not just a place to visit—it’s a place to experience.
The Verdict: Ready Now
Ascoli Piceno shines in many ways—culturally, socially, aesthetically, and economically. Its people are warm and welcoming. Surrounded by stunning scenery, it embodies the essence of the sweet life. Irresistible and captivating, Ascoli Piceno offers the best of what Italian life has to offer: beauty, ease, and pleasure.
