“Leaving the U.S. was a difficult decision since I’ve spent most of my life there, but I knew it was time to start a new chapter,” said Dori, an American expat living in Palermo, Sicily. He has been in Italy since 2017, enjoying a slower pace of life, delicious food, over 325 days of sunshine, and a lower cost of living compared to his former life in New York City.
“I feel more relaxed here in Italy. Back home, I always felt like I was rushing to be somewhere, even if nothing was planned. I can take my time and enjoy the little things here. Palermo is a bit chaotic in its own right, but it doesn’t compare to the hustle and bustle of the U.S.!”
So many people dream of living "la dolce vita" — the sweet life — in Italy. But every day, more North Americans are turning that dream into reality, packing up their lives in Canada or the U.S. and joining expats from around the world in this amazing, welcoming, and diverse country.
While Rome, Milan, and Tuscan towns like Florence and Lucca remain popular choices for English-speaking expats, Sicily — particularly Palermo — has been gaining attention among digital nomads and expats alike.
Lifestyle in Palermo
What makes Palermo so compelling, unique, and noteworthy? This bustling, lively, and energetic city of 650,000 bears the distinct imprint of countless cultures—both past and present. It’s woven into the cobblestone streets, built into the city’s stunning palaces, reflected in its creative and diverse cuisine, and alive in its people. Conquered and ruled by the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Moors, French, Vandals, and Arabs, Palermo’s architecture, culture, and food have been shaped by the myriad of civilizations that have called Sicilia home over the millennia.
Nowhere else can you stroll past a gorgeous 12th-century cathedral, framed by swaying palm trees, and just down the street, find the sumptuous Norman Palace, Europe’s oldest royal residence, with its breathtaking, gold-embellished mosaic ceiling in the royal chapel. Keep walking, and you’ll soon reach the heart of Palermo’s centro storico (historic center), the Quattro Canti (Four Quarters), marking the boundaries of the city’s four ancient districts. In this ornate Baroque square, you’ll be surrounded on all sides by towering churches, soaring statues of saints and seasons, and often, the lively melodies of street musicians adding to the vibrancy of this major pedestrian hub.
But Palermo isn’t just about grand cathedrals and historic palaces—on every street, you’ll find cafés serving smooth, intense Italian espresso, often paired with a pistachio cornetto (Italy’s version of a croissant—pronounced pis-TAK-io, not pi-STACH-io in proper Italian) or a brioche filled with granita, a shaved ice dessert famous in Palermo—all for around €3.50.
Street vendors sell freshly squeezed juices or Aperol Spritz to-go in plastic cups for just a few euros, alongside Palermo’s iconic pani ca’ meusa—a traditional spleen sandwich—and panelle, deep-fried chickpea patties. And if you love markets, you’re in luck. Palermo is home to not one, not two, but three major open-air markets—Capo, La Vucciria, and Ballarò—where vendors hawk fresh carciofi, melanzane, and pomodoro rosso (artichokes, eggplant, and red tomatoes). Strolling past the bustling stalls, you’ll hear merchants shouting and gesticulating, vying for your attention as they sell freshly caught seafood, iconic cheeses, multi-colored olives, leather goods, handmade jewelry, and vibrantly patterned tablecloths.
For those seeking cultural experiences, Palermo offers:
Opera & Ballet — The Teatro Massimo, Europe’s third-largest opera house, and Teatro Politeama Garibaldi, home of the Orchestra Sinfonica Siciliana.
Music & Arts — Jazz clubs, Irish pubs with live bands, and world-class art exhibitions, such as the recent "Celebrating Picasso" at the Norman Palace.
Historic Attractions — Botanical gardens, catacombs, archaeological parks, and even UNESCO-recognized puppet theaters.
Sports & Recreation — Palermo F.C. boasts one of Italy’s oldest soccer teams. Expats can also join hiking, biking, volleyball, and padel ball groups.
Expat Community & Social Life
Palermo has a growing expat community, with over 1,000 members in Facebook and WhatsApp groups. Events range from pub crawls, karaoke nights, and book clubs to day trips, hikes, and language exchanges.
There is also a Girls Gone International (GGI) chapter, where women meet for wine tastings, concerts, and social outings.
Cost of Living & Housing
Palermo offers a lower cost of living than Rome or Milan. Housing in popular expat neighborhoods like the historic center and Politeama-Libertà ranges in price:
One-bedroom apartments: €550–€1,200/month.
Two-bedroom apartments: €650–€2,400/month.
Luxury penthouses with sea views: Higher-end pricing.
For those looking to buy property, prices vary widely:
Large palatial home (340m²): €1.1 million.
Studio apartment (60m², needing renovation): €55,000.
Groceries are much less expensive than in the U.S. or Canada. Fresh produce typically costs €2–€3 per kilo (2.2 pounds), and spending €50 per week per person at the supermarket is average.
Dining out varies widely in price. You can enjoy a delicious, generously filled piadina (wrap) stuffed with melted caciocavallo cheese, roasted porchetta (pork), and friarielli (broccoli rabe) sautéed in local olive oil and garlic, all paired with a frosty cold local beer—for just €9.
On the other end of the spectrum, an exquisite eight-course tasting menu at the Michelin-noted restaurant and art gallery, A’ Cuncuma, costs a very reasonable €85 per person, with bottles of local and international wines starting at just €18.
Transportation & Accessibility
Palermo has two international airports:
Palermo Airport — 45 minutes from the city center via train or bus.
Catania Airport — A two-hour drive away, with flights to major European cities like Budapest, Athens, and Vienna.
Within the historic center of the city, walking is the best mode of transportation since everything is nearby, including theaters, grocers, dentists, and doctors. For travel beyond the centro, the city bus system provides an easy way to get around.
Taxis are available, and Uber operates in Palermo by connecting riders to taxis, though fares can be pricey. Additionally, Palermo Centrale train station offers connections to destinations beyond the city, including Agrigento and Cefalù—and even Rome by rail. In a unique twist, the train is loaded onto a ferry to cross the water to the mainland.
Pros and Cons of Palermo
Wondering about the crime rate in Palermo? Cities like Milan, Rome, and Naples have higher crime rates than Palermo. While pickpocketing and stolen bicycles or scooters do occur, the rate of personal crime is very low.
What about the weather? Palermo enjoys over 300 days of sunshine per year. Winters are mild, with some rain but mostly cool, sunny days. Temperatures range from 50–59°F (10–15°C) in the winter months. July and August can be blisteringly hot, with daytime highs in the 90s°F (high 30s°C) and nighttime lows around 70–73°F (22–23°C). The rest of the year offers pleasant, temperate weather along the sea.
Considering a move to Palermo with school-aged children? Most schools are taught in Italian, except for private international schools. Gonzaga and Thomas More International School offer bilingual education for Palermo’s students.
Palermo isn’t for everyone. While it is charming, historical, and vibrant, it also has its gritty elements. The city is often filled with the sounds of honking cars, buzzing Vespas, shouting vendors, and barking dogs, contributing to its lively but sometimes overwhelming atmosphere. Some areas are unkempt, with broken glass, litter, and graffiti, which can detract from the city's beauty.
Additionally, parts of the city still bear the scars of World War II, with bombed-out buildings that remain unrestored, adding to its rugged aesthetic. While healthcare facilities such as UPMC (University of Pittsburgh Medical Center) are well-regarded, Palermo’s hospitals are not as advanced as those found in Northern Italy, which may be a concern for those who prioritize access to top-tier medical care.
The Verdict: Up & Coming
Palermo falls into the “Up and Coming” category, but it leans closer to “It’ll Be a While” than to “Ready Now.” The city offers high walkability, affordable housing, food, and entertainment, and a rich cultural scene. Retirees, digital nomads, and families could thrive here with the right mindset and a willingness to embrace the Sicilian lifestyle—adapting to its quirks while appreciating its charm.
However, Palermo is still rough around the edges. While it has quirky coworking spaces and an international school, it also has abandoned buildings, visible street trash, and a pace of modernization that lags behind other European cities. For now, it’s best suited to adventurous expats—those who can embrace the city’s raw, energetic vibe rather than expect seamless infrastructure and conveniences.
If you’re looking for a place that’s vibrant, unique, and evolving—but still a work in progress—Palermo might be for you.
